lisa b wellness

Sweet Azuki ~ Sweet Lunar New Year

2012-01-22T08:18:00.000-08:00

Welcoming the New Year with sweets is a tradition which crosses many cultural boundaries, and Asia is no exception. On the Lunar New Year, special sweet dishes are prepared for celebratory meals. Since beans symbolize both health and prosperity, azukis are a popular choice among Japanese chefs; their auspicious red color adds to the portion of good luck they promise.

The delicate, subtly herbal flavor of azuki beans is best enhanced by very simple preparation. This recipe is composed of just water, beans, sea salt and a sweetener to ensure that the taste of the azukis will not be obscured. Sugar is usually used to make traditional azuki desserts but I've replaced it with golden Sultana raisins to create a mildly sweet but satisfying dish.

Soak the beans for at least six hours in fresh water, or overnight. It's ok to leave the beans in their soaking water in the fridge for an extra day. The raisins are soaked for at least one hour to make them soft, but they too can be held for a day in the fridge. For convenient soaking, place the raisins in a clean glass jar with enough water to cover. Process the raisins with their soaking liquid in the blender until fairly smooth.

After soaking and rinsing, the beans are boiled twice in fresh water for one minute to rid them of any impurities or bitterness. It's easiest to use a stainless steel colander placed in the sink to safely drain off the hot cooking liquid.

Sweet Azuki Bean Paste (Tsubu- An)

2 cups azuki beans, soaked at least 6 hours & drained
fresh water to cover during 1 minute boiling
4-5 cups fresh water
2/3 cup golden raisins, soaked at least 1 hour in water & pureed with soaking liquid in blender
1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1. Place soaked and rinsed beans in pot with enough water to cover by about 1 inch.
2. Bring to a boil for one minute, drain off cooking liquid and rinse beans in cool water.
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2, being sure to rinse out the pot each time.
4. Return beans to pot, add 4- 5 cups fresh water and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer beans for 50 - 60 minutes or until soft. Add more water if needed during cooking.
5. Add pureed raisins and sea salt to beans; simmer on a low flame and stir until most of the cooking liquid is evaporated. The whole cooked beans will look like the bottom photo.
6. Turn off heat and mash some of the beans with a wooden spoon, leaving some beans whole if you wish; the finished dish will look like the top photo.
7. Cool beans by pouring them onto a ceramic or glass platter.

Serve sweet azuki in small dessert dishes; the flavor is best at room temperature. Drizzle with a little maple syrup to ensure an extra sweet New Year!

Azuki? The Small Red Bean

2012-01-05T05:12:00.000-08:00

The delicious and versatile small red bean known in Japan as azuki has long occupied an honored place in Asian cuisine where it is often the highlight of celebratory meals. First domesticated in the Himalayas, azuki, or hong xiao dou ("red small bean") in Mandarin, is in the same family as soy and mung beans. Introduced to the Korean Peninsula around 1000 BCE, azuki arrived a bit later in Japan, where it has remained a beloved food ever since.

Traditional Eastern Medicine considers the azuki a strengthening food with medicinal properties. It may be eaten during the cold winter months as a protective measure to support overall health; it would also be recommended for those with a lack of vitality and vulnerability to cold. In western terms, the azuki is highly nutritious and is a good source of protein, vitamins, minerals and fiber.

When sweetened, the mild flavor of azuki is transformed into a prized ingredient featured in a variety of Asian desserts. The beans are cooked, sweetened and mashed into a paste called an, which is used as a filling for buns and tea cakes. Taiyaki, a fish- shaped waffle stuffed with an can be savored fresh from the griddle in San Francisco's Japan Town. Osekihan, "honorable red rice" is made with azuki and sweet rice and is served on special occasions. The beans lend the rice a delicate pink hue which is reminiscent of cherry blossoms.

Many natural food stores and ethnic markets carry azuki. Select beans that are brightly colored, plump and unblemished. Simple recipes are best when cooking azuki, to allow the true taste of the small red bean to shine. Recipe to follow!

Winter Solstice Cassoulet: Squash & Anasazi Beans

2011-12-21T00:21:00.000-08:00

The season of "the longest night" is upon us, when dark chilly days call out for warming, substantial foods like this savory cassoulet. Anasazi beans, winter squash and chile peppers imbue it with a distinctive southwestern flavor as well as many healthy nutrients. Adjust the level of spicy heat to suit your taste! Black beans, pintos, kidney beans or adzuki beans are all equally suitable for this dish.

Just two simple steps are involved in preparing the recipe. First the beans are simmered with the aromatic vegetables; then the squash and spices are added and cooked for a few more minutes. The cassoulet's flavor deepens with time; if made in advance it may be safely stored in the fridge for several days.

Cassoulet of Winter Squash and Anasazi Beans:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup leek, finely sliced
1 rib celery, diced
1 large carrot, sliced
2 cups Anasazi or other beans, soaked and drained
1 bay leaf
5 + cups fresh water
1 medium winter squash, cubed
1-2 red chile peppers thinly sliced (optional)
2 teaspoons maple syrup (optional)
1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/4 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1- 2 teaspoons Hungarian paprika
1 teaspoon oregano or marjoram
1 teaspoon sea salt (or to taste)
1- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice for garnish
2 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro or parsley for garnish
1-2 red chile peppers, thinly sliced for garnish

Heat olive oil in a heavy pan; saute leek and celery until fragrant. Add carrot and continue to saute briefly. Add beans, bay leaf and water and bring to a simmer. Cover beans and cook on a low to medium flame until just tender, about 45- 50 minutes. Stir in squash, chile pepper, maple syrup, ginger, cinnamon, paprika, oregano and sea salt. Simmer until squash is tender but not mushy, adding more water if needed. Remove from heat and adjust seasoning. Serve cassoulet very hot with a generous sprinkling of fresh lemon juice, chopped cilantro or parsley and additional chile pepper as desired.

Note: The backyard birds in my neighborhood seem to appreciate all manner of squash seeds when I am too lazy to prepare them for human consumption.

Eggplant Relish, or Poor Man's Caviar

2011-12-13T04:18:00.000-08:00

Anyone with vegetable gardening experience will readily grasp the "poor man's caviar" concept as applied to eggplant. A madly prolific vegetable, a couple of eggplant bushes are capable of overwhelming the home gardener with quantities of large shiny purple fruits, enough to nourish an entire family for weeks on end. The saving grace of eggplant is its adaptability to a multitude of cooking techniques which bring out its subtle rich flavor.

Eggplant recipes are ubiquitous throughout the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Central and Eastern Europe and Asia. This recipe is a contemporary iteration of a treasured family favorite handed down by my Eastern European forebears. Always referred to as "poor man's caviar", it was traditionally eaten with a chunk of the weighty, dark sour rye bread which exists now only in the mists of memory.

It's best to make the relish ahead of time since allowing the mixture to rest overnight or for at least five or six hours greatly enhances the flavor. If you're looking for a little something special to serve with latkes this year, double the recipe and share with friends.

Eggplant Relish ~ Poor Man's Caviar:

1 large eggplant, thinly sliced into strips
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 + tablespoons olive oil
1 cup leek, very thinly sliced
2 stalks celery, finely diced
1 large sweet red pepper, diced
2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves, roughly chopped
2 + tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Place eggplant strips in a colander over a bowl or in sink and sprinkle with salt. Toss well to distribute the salt and allow to rest for 5 - 10 minutes.
With clean hands, take a handful of eggplant and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Repeat until all strips are done. (Removing the liquid makes it easier to sautee the eggplant, and with less oil.)
Place eggplant strips on cutting board and dice into very small pieces.
Heat olive oil over a high flame in a heavy frying pan; add some of the eggplant and allow it to scorch a bit as it cooks; continue to stir and add more eggplant in stages.
When eggplant is tender but not mushy, remove from pan and set aside.
Saute leek, celery and red pepper in olive oil until fragrant; turn off heat.
Return eggplant to frying pan and using a wooden spoon, mash mixture to desired consistency.
Add parsley leaves and lemon juice, toss well, taste and adjust seasoning.
Store in a clean glass jar in fridge for several days.
Serve as a relish with other vegetables or salads; great as a snack or spread.

Winter: A Persimmon A Day

2011-11-28T14:59:00.001-08:00

Persimmon enthusiasts require no special inducements to consume this superb fruit, which is now in season in Northern California. But for those less familiar with persimmons who hesitate to expand their fruit repertoire, it may be an added incentive to know that persimmons are among the healthiest fruits ever cultivated.

Rich in beta carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin and cryptoxanthin as well as vitamin C, folate, potassium, manganese, copper and phosphorus, the persimmon ranks high as a super food which is also affordable and easy to incorporate into one's daily diet. Its plentiful nutrients are especially beneficial during the winter months when the supply and variety of fresh fruit is limited and cold weather viruses are making the rounds.

The Japanese Fuyu persimmon pictured above is a non-astringent variety which is edible when firm. Fuyus may be stored in a cool place and allowed to ripen gradually; they will continue to deepen in color and sweetness while softening only slightly. With proper handling, Fuyus will keep for weeks, long after the harvest is over.

Persimmon season is short. Demand for the crop is modest and it is not a highly commercialized fruit, so the number of persimmon orchards in California is still small. When you spot persimmons in your produce market, you might want to take home a good quantity before the harvest ends, which can happen rather abruptly, usually sometime in mid December.

At their most nutritious when eaten raw, persimmons are excellent eaten out of hand or sliced into salads; they travel well for portable snacks. But my very favorite way to enjoy them is as a persimmon smoothie, which can be made in seconds. Simply cut up a persimmon and process in a blender with nut milk or plain soy milk until smooth; add a little nutmeg if you wish. Serve in a bowl or glass; you'll need a spoon to savor this sublimely luxurious winter delight!

Note: See persimmon smoothie recipe in a previous post titled "Perfect Persimmon Smoothie".

Healthy Eating on $4.50 a Day: Not a Snap!

2011-11-14T08:11:00.000-08:00

A group of U.S. Congressional Representatives recently participated in "The Food Stamp (SNAP) Challenge" to draw attention to the plight of more than 45 million Americans currently receiving nutrition assistance. The representatives attempted to eat for seven days on a budget comparable to what the average recipient is allotted under SNAP, the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program in their respective states; in California that amount is $4.50 a day.

Inspired by their example but also disturbed by media reports of Congresspeople subsisting on canned tuna, lettuce, white bread and hard boiled eggs, I decided to take up the challenge with the goal of eating a health supportive diet comprised almost entirely of high quality, unprocessed or minimally processed plant based foods.

Although it is not possible and was not my intention to replicate the circumstances of those who live month in and month out in truly challenging circumstances on a very restrictive food budget, the experience was enlightening and humbling.

The photo above illustrates the typical selection of foods I ate during the seven day trial. By carefully planning, shopping and preparing all meals from scratch, it was possible to consume enough calories to maintain adequate physical energy, stave off hunger between meals and satisfy daily nutrition requirements.

However, it was a shock to discover how quickly I could exceed my daily budget simply by eating an extra piece of fruit, an added serving of peanut butter, soy milk or other snack. Lentils, brown rice and barley with vegetables provided satisfying and nutritious meals at very modest cost, but there was little or no room for unplanned grazing beyond the essentials.

It also became clear immediately that the looming specter of food insecurity dramatically transforms one's relationship to eating. Even under the best of circumstances, the seven day challenge was far from a carefree experience and left me concerned for those for whom this is not an temporary experiment.

Basic food costs:

brown rice, 1 cup cooked $.37
barley, 1 cup cooked $.25
lentils, 1 cup cooked $.67
peanut butter, 2 TBSP $.21
peanuts, 2 TBSP $.24
sunflower seeds, 2 TBSP $.18
green tea bag $.16
plain soy milk, 1 cup $.50
banana, medium $.26
apple, medium $.55
orange, medium $.54
plum, small $.25
green beans, 1/4 lb $.50
carrot, medium $.29
winter squash, 1/2 $.59
arugula, 2 large handfuls $.42
sweet pepper, 1 small $.66

Note: Ingredients such as those used for preparing lentils included small amounts of leek, garlic, celery, olive oil, sea salt and dried herbs; these added very little expense over the week.

Harvest Salad With Forbidden Rice

2011-11-01T11:11:00.000-07:00

A refreshing and nutritious quick meal, Harvest Salad requires only two components- cooked Forbidden Rice (also known as black rice) and seasonal fresh vegetables. The sweet peppers which predominate in this recipe lend it vibrant flavor and color and contrast dramatically with the deep purple hued rice. Select three or four varieties of raw vegetables, cut them into roughly uniform pieces, and toss with rice. A sprinkling of fresh herbs adds a lively dimension to the salad; it's worth taking the time to track some down. If you don't have black rice, short grain brown rice works equally well.

Harvest Salad with Forbidden Rice

2 cups cooked black rice (room temperature)
2 - 3 sweet peppers of various colors, diced
1 carrot, diced
2 handfuls small arugula leaves
1 ripe tomato, diced
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram or oregano leaves
or a few torn basil or mint leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 or more tablespoons rice vinegar, lemon juice or lime juice
sea salt to taste

Place rice in a bowl. Add vegetables and toss gently. Sprinkle with herbs, olive oil, vinegar and sea salt and toss again. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately. Salad may be assembled several hours ahead of time without the last three ingredients, which should be added just before serving.

Note: For instructions on cooking black rice, see post entitled "Forbidden Rice".

Autumn: "Season of Mists and Mellow Fruitfulness"

2011-10-18T10:18:00.000-07:00

Autumn is a season of dramatic natural beauty. The days still contain a hint of summer's warmth, the air is fragrant, the brilliant harvest moon sheds its light on fields and towns, and we feast on the abundant fruits of the harvest- tomatoes, sweet peppers, grapes, apples, pears and melons. Yet in the midst of pleasure and fulfillment, we sense the inevitable approach of the dark chilly days of winter.

John Keats, the English Romantic poet, composed his ode "To Autumn" in September of 1819, reportedly after taking an evening stroll near the city of Winchester. His words, written when Keats was only twenty two years old, describe perfectly the bittersweet essence of the season. The poem is comprised of three stanzas of eleven lines each. This is the first stanza:

To Autumn

Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eaves run;
To bud with apples the moss'd cottage trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;
To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells
With a sweet kernal; to set budding more,
And still more, later flowers for the bees,
Until they think warm days will never cease,
For Summer has o'er brimm'd their clammy cells.

-- John Keats (1795- 1821)

Onigiri: Honorable Rice Ball!

2011-09-28T09:28:00.000-07:00

There is no more delicious and satisfying convenience food than the wonderful gem of Japanese cuisine, onigiri. For centuries, travelers have carried rice balls on short and long journeys, and today they are a beloved comfort food in Japan, where many specialty shops are devoted solely to the making and selling of onigiri.

Onigiri (also known as omusubi) can be very simple, consisting of nothing more than cooked rice, or they can be creative works of art which reflect the chef's imagination and skill. Rice balls always contain salt, tamari or pickled ingredients which act as preservatives, keeping the rice from spoiling. Pickled umeboshi plums are a favorite traditional filling.

Only short grain or medium grain rice should be used to make onigiri; long grain does not have the proper consistency. Although white rice is most popular, brown and black rice make flavorful, nutritious onigiri. Correctly cooked rice- not too soft or hard- is essential for the rice balls to retain their shape. Round, cylindrical and triangular shapes are made by hand but many varieties of inexpensive molds, one of which is seen in the photo above, are available with which anyone can make perfectly shaped rice balls.

Black rice makes stunningly beautiful onigiri. Unwrap one of these on an airplane and your seatmates will be terribly envious. Pack a handful of sliced raw vegetables and enjoy a healthy, inexpensive meal with roots in an ancient tradition. You will understand with the first bite why the honorific "O" is included in the spelling of onigiri, which means "honorable rice ball".

Forbidden Rice

2011-09-14T09:11:00.000-07:00

In ancient days in China, according to legend, black rice was reserved exclusively for the Emperor and his court; commoners were forbidden to eat it. Black rice was prized for its exotic purple- black color, nutty sweet flavor and especially for its potent medicinal qualities.

The distinctive color of black rice is caused by the presence of high levels of anthocyanins, a class of antioxidants which are also found in many plant foods including blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and purple cabbage. Research into antioxidant nutrients suggests that they contain valuable health protective properties. Black rice is also an excellent source of protein, vitamins and minerals, including iron, and has even more fiber than brown rice.

One of the advantages of black rice is the small size of the grains which cook more quickly than other rice varieties. Exact cooking time may vary a bit but black rice requires only about 30 minutes to cook thoroughly. If you prefer softer, less chewy rice, soak for a few hours before cooking.

Basic Black Rice:

1 cup black rice
1+3/4 cups water
1 pinch sea salt
1/4 teaspoon olive oil

Place ingredients in a pot with a thick bottom and close fitting lid. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook over a low flame for about 30 minutes. (A flame tamer placed under the rice will prevent scorching). Fluff rice with fork or chopsticks, turn off heat, cover and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes before serving. Yield: About 3 cups cooked rice.

9/11/11

2011-09-11T09:11:00.000-07:00

Plums in Summer: So Sweet & So Cold

2011-08-26T05:18:00.000-07:00

This is just to say that I am unable to see a plate of ripe summer plums without hearing the words of the famous short poem by William Carlos Williams, in which he asks his wife to forgive him for eating the plums that were in the icebox.

Williams was a physician in Rutherford, New Jersey, where he was born in 1883. He and his wife Flossie raised their two children in the home where he also maintained his medical office; upstairs in the attic was a small room where he wrote many volumes of poetry and prose until his death in 1963.

When reading the poem, I picture Williams standing in the cool, dark kitchen early on a summer morning, eating the plums before going into his office. In his day, a plum was a plum; no multicolored sticker was required to describe its essence. Having lived half his life before the advent of refrigeration, Williams naturally used the word "icebox" in the poem, evoking an era long gone.

But the sensation of eating a piece of sweet, ripe fruit is timeless, and Williams captures it in just 33 words. His experience remains as vivid today as on the morning he wrote those words. Late summer is a good time to give in to the temptations of plums and poetry.

This Is Just To Say

I have eaten
the plums
that were in
the icebox

and which
you were probably
saving
for breakfast

Forgive me
they were delicious
so sweet
and so cold

William Carlos Williams
1883- 1963

Cooking with Pressure: Fast, Healthy, Flavorful

2011-08-11T05:11:00.000-07:00

Most younger Americans have probably never seen a pressure cooker, let alone used one. Pressure cookers had their heyday in the 1940's following their introduction at the 1939 New York World's Fair, but they were soon supplanted by the huge wave of convenience foods which swept the country in the 1950's, when most of those old cookers were relegated to basements and attics and forgotten.

But pressure cookers retained a place of honor in kitchens throughout much of Europe, South America, North Africa and India, where they are valued for making flavorful healthy meals which are also remarkably fuel and time efficient. The most beautifully designed sleek, safe and durable pressure cookers like the Italian one in the photo are made by European manufacturers; these contemporary stainless steel models last for a lifetime and are a pleasure to use.

Today the pressure cooker is again gaining recognition in the U.S. among cooks who appreciate the intense, concentrated and pure flavors created by relatively brief cooking under pressure. Dense vegetables like beets, winter squash, carrots and potatoes cook in roughly one third the time required by conventional cooking methods, as do legumes, brown rice, barley and other whole grains. Savory vegetable stews, soups and sauces which normally require slow cooking can be prepared in minutes using a single pot from start to finish.

I acquired my first Italian pressure cooker in 1982 and have used it year round since then. In warm weather I prepare garbanzo beans or white beans to use in fresh green salads with ripe tomatoes and herbs. In autumn when apples and pears are plentiful, I make apple- pear sauce with cinnamon and ginger; in winter, black beans and spicy red bean chile are often on the menu. Winter and summer, this dependable kitchen tool keeps the pressure in the pot where it belongs, and out of the kitchen.

Parsley: An Uncommon Root

2011-07-28T05:18:00.000-07:00

These intriguingly shaped little parsley roots were an unexpected find on a recent shopping expedition; although they were clearly labeled I was certain that they were immature parsnips. Seldom seen in American produce markets, parsley root is familiar to central European cooks who use it in soups and stews.

Long cultivated in the Mediterranean region, the parsley plant is a member of the large family of umbelliferae which includes carrots, celery, celeriac, caraway, chervil, cilantro and dill. So important was the plant to ancient Greek culture that coins were stamped with the image of the parsley leaf.

If you do come across parsley roots in the market, they may still have their edible leaves attached. You'll notice their resemblance to celery leaves, as the two are closely related. The ancient Greek name for parsley is selinon; the word is sometimes used to refer to both parsley and wild celery. The botanical term A. petroselinum literally means "rock parsley".

Young parsley roots may be thinly sliced and eaten raw in salads, or steamed briefly until tender and mashed with a bit of olive oil and sea salt. Roast with your favorite root vegetables in the oven, or add to rustic vegetable soups such as minestrone or borscht.

Parsley roots begin to mature enough for harvesting in late summer, signaling the approach of fall. Unblemished, firm roots will keep well in the fridge for at least a few weeks. Those which have been stored longer will still be fine for cooking. Be sure to scrub roots well before using.

A Snow Pea in Summer

2011-07-14T05:00:00.000-07:00

One can only guess how the snow pea got its name. Peas are among the first crops to be sown by home gardeners in the springtime; in temperate climates, a dusting of snow would not be unlikely after planting. Known for their ability to withstand a late frost, pea plants produce well only in consistently cool growing conditions.

Once an exotic specialty food, fresh snow peas are now available in California markets almost year round. The sugar snap pea is the other edible- pod pea variety; plumper and shorter than the snow pea, it's a cross between the sweet pea and snow pea. The sugar snap and the snow pea are also known by their French name "mangetout" which means "eat all".

One of the earliest plants cultivated by humans, peas are a fine source of protein and vitamins. But snow peas are most appreciated for their sweet refreshing flavor, crisp texture and vibrant green color, all of which can be enhanced by simple preparation. Try stir frying briefly with ginger root, garlic and green onion, or steam lightly and toss with almonds, tamari sauce and a few drops of toasted sesame oil.

Snow peas are at their very best eaten raw, straight from the vine on a cool early morning. If you don't have a garden, look for bright green snow peas at the produce market. Select small or medium sized pods for best flavor. Stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, they'll keep well for several days and travel well to work or school for a quick, energizing snack. So, mange tout! Enjoy the crunchy chill of a small snow pea flurry in summer.

Coolness of the Melons

2011-06-28T05:30:00.000-07:00

Melon season has begun in Northern California and the outlook is good for a sweet and plentiful harvest which will continue all summer. Not a single cantaloupe or honeydew I've tasted in the last ten days has been anything less than superb, and the prices are right. Melons are an excellent source of quality nutrients and their cooling properties make them ideal for warm weather eating.

Selecting the perfect melon requires a bit of philosophy and a small leap of faith. There are no guarantees when it comes to guessing what's on the inside of any piece of fruit but there are a few guidelines to keep in mind as you peruse the pyramids of melons at your local produce stand.

The first is fragrance; shop with your nose. If a melon has no perfume, chances are it will never develop much flavor. Color is the second important factor; cantaloupes should show a golden color between the beige netting. If the rind is predominantly green, move on to the next melon. Honeydews should also have a slightly golden hue; small brown speckles indicate a high sugar content. The outside of a very sweet honeydew may even feel a little sticky to the touch.

Allow melons to continue ripening at room temperature until very fragrant. Ripe melons will keep well in the fridge for several days; allow to return to room temperature before serving for best flavor. Cut melon into chunks and store in glass jars in the fridge, ready for quick snacks. Or make spectacular fresh smoothies by simply blending melon with other ripe summer fruits like strawberries, raspberries or blackberries.

Melons grow while resting on the ground, and it's important to wash them before slicing. Scrub the rind gently with water and a vegetable brush and blot dry.

***

"Coolness of the melons
flecked with mud
in the morning dew."

--- Basho
(1644- 1694)

Wind, Rain & Cherries

2011-06-14T08:18:00.000-07:00

Just as the California cherry season was nearing its peak in early June, a series of storms soaked the orchards, dumping two inches of rain in a single windy grey weekend. The rainfall was bad news for cherry growers, as ripe cherries readily absorb excess moisture which causes the fruit to swell and crack; the fissures invite spoilage and mar the appearance of the fruit.

But bad news for growers is not necessarily bad news for cherry lovers this year. Flavorful juicy cherries, some with blemishes but most of which are perfect (as in photos above) are in plentiful supply at low prices in small neighborhood produce markets. Supermarket chains don't purchase cosmetically imperfect fruit, nor can it be exported. California sells thousands of boxes of cherries to Japan and other Asian countries annually; this year much of that part of the harvest must be sold locally. Although a portion of the cherry crop has been damaged and growers may not have a profitable year, it looks like there will be no shortage of fruit on this side of the Pacific rim.

Our brief California cherry season ends in mid June, soon to be followed by the Pacific Northwest crop from Washington and Oregon which will provide a second much larger wave of delicious fruit, most likely throughout the month of July. So in spite of wind and rain or because of it, this summer cherry lovers will eat their fill.

Note: Wash cherries thoroughly. Damaged fruit should be removed and composted. Blot cherries dry and store loosely wrapped in plastic bags in the fridge where they should keep well for at least two weeks.

Muesli for Dinner (or lunch or breakfast)

2011-05-24T08:18:00.000-07:00

Muesli for dinner? It might not be what Herr Doktor Professor Maximilian Oskar Bircher-Benner had in mind back in the late 19th century, but at the end a busy 21st century day, muesli can be a quick healthy solution to the evening meal challenge.

Legend has it that Bircher-Benner was served muesli while traveling in the Swiss Alps and was so impressed with the vitality of the animal herders who consumed it regularly that he was inspired to bring the concept back to his Zurich patients in hopes of improving their health. It became a classic breakfast cereal still known in Europe as Birchermuesli.

Unlike granola (which also dates back to the late 19th century) the grains in muesli are not toasted or roasted, and no oils or sweeteners are added. Rolled oats are the most commonly mentioned grain in muesli recipes; rolled rye and wheat flakes are also used. Nuts, seeds, dried and fresh fruit complete the mix.

My simple version of homemade muesli really requires no recipe; I just toss whatever ingredients I find in my pantry into a bowl, add some fresh fruit, soy milk or nut milk, and eat. Here's what was in my bowl last night! (Makes one serving).

Monday Night Muesli

1 pink lady apple, chopped
1 heaping tablespoon organic rolled oats
1 tablespoon almonds, chopped
1 tablespoon hazelnuts, chopped
1 tablespoon sunflower seeds
1 tablespoon golden raisins
1 medjul date, chopped
a few drops vanilla extract
soy milk (or nut milk)

Put it all in a bowl, adding as much soy milk as you like. Eat very slowly while visualizing craggy mountain peaks and blue skies, meadows carpeted with wildflowers and little snow white goats grazing in the sunlight.

White Russian Kale: An Elegant Heirloom

2011-05-04T07:37:00.000-07:00

White Russian kale was a delightful recent discovery at my favorite produce market. I was immediately drawn to the delicate lacey leaves with their striking green and ivory markings and scooped up a bunch to ferry home for a photo session. Esthetically, I knew that this vegetable would not disappoint!

What I wasn't expecting was the taste test result; the leaves are tender, mild and sweet. Although I'm sure they would be delicious steamed or sauteed, the leaves tasted so good raw that I never got around to cooking them but instead created a series of simple tossed salads, not something I'd normally do with a bunch of hardy winter kale.

A Ruso- Siberian heirloom, B. oleracea var. fimbriata is one of numerous kale varieties, all of which are natives of the Mediterranean region. It was one of the wild ancestors of the large group of cruciferous vegetables which includes cabbage, broccoli, brussel's sprouts and collards. All are densely nutritious, grow well in cool climates and have been widely cultivated for at least two thousand years.

When shopping for kale, select unwilted blemish- free leaves. Remove stem fasteners (which will damage the leaves if left in place) and blot leaves with a clean towel if they are too wet. Store loosely wrapped in fridge for up to several days. If kale becomes a bit wilted from long storage, it will still be fine for use in vegetable soups, stews or sautees. (See recipe categories listed under "labels" at lower right hand column of blog).

Turnip + Watercress + Purple Cabbage = Spring Salad

2011-04-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

This spicy, crunchy and refreshing spring salad will leave you wishing you'd made twice as much. Proportions below are flexible; improvise as you wish. Keep in mind that the turnips and watercress can be quite pungent; balance their bite with the cooling purple cabbage. Grating the turnips and cabbage rather than slicing will alter the texture of the salad in a delightful way; either method creates a vibrantly colorful and healthy dish.

Salad:
2 cups turnips, thinly sliced or grated
2 cups purple cabbage, thinly sliced or grated
2 tablespoons leek, thinly sliced (use the green part too)
2 handfuls watercress

Dressing:
fresh squeezed juice of 2 or 3 lemons
olive oil to taste
sea salt to taste

Arrange vegetables on a platter; sprinkle with fresh lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt to taste and serve. Or toss salad in a bowl with dressing just before serving.

Turnips: A Meditation

2011-04-06T11:18:00.000-07:00

Turnips: A Definition

"The usually white globular 'root' (the swollen hypocotyl) of a yellow- flowered cruciferous plant, Brassica rapa, long cultivated as a vegetable and as cattle- feed." (Middle 16th century).

-- Oxford English Dictionary

Turnips: Random Thoughts

Easily overlooked among more distinguished vegetables and fruits, turnips occupy a small corner of the culinary world and the produce bin; sometimes hairy, bumpy, irregularly shaped, perhaps a bit dirty and colorless, they don't cry out for attention. However, a turnip will never let you down!

Stored in the fridge in a loosely closed plastic bag, a turnip will be there when you need it, unspoiled and filled with quiet potential. Add it to soups or stews, roast in the oven with a few other vegetables and a sprinkling of olive oil, sea salt and herbs. Or make a quick fresh salad of raw julienned turnip and carrot tossed in a simple herb dressing.

Select turnips which are smooth, free of bruises or fissures, and which feel heavy for their size. If greens are attached, do not discard; they are a nutritious and spicy treat. Cut greens from bulb with a knife, wash well and steam briefly.

Several varieties of small "baby" turnips can be found in produce markets, like the "Golden Globes" in the photo above. They are milder in flavor, more tender and faster cooking than larger specimens (best left for cattle- feed) and are ideal for any recipe. These are the best ones to keep on hand, waiting for that special turnip moment to arise.

Recipe to follow!

Citrus Squeeze: Minneola + Blood Orange Juice

2011-03-31T11:18:00.000-07:00

One of the great pleasures of late winter in Northern California is the abundant supply of a wide variety of fresh citrus fruit such as Minneola tangelos, navel and Valencia oranges, Rio Star grapefruit, Cara Cara oranges and blood oranges. There are infinite ways to enjoy this annual citrus bonanza but one of the most delightful and simplest is to make a glass of fresh squeezed juice. My favorite combination is Minneola tangelo and blood orange juice; this energizing blend creates a beautiful ruby red drink with a delicate aromatic flavor.

Minneola Tangelo + Blood Orange Juice:

2 Minneola tangelos
1 blood orange

Wash fruit, cut into halves and squeeze by hand. Serve immediately in a glass; sip very slowly! Makes one serving.

Brazilian stainless steel hand powered citrus juicer, circa 1991.

Real Oatmeal with Medjool Dates & Toasted Almonds

2011-03-02T11:18:00.000-08:00

A recent column by Mark Bittman of the New York Times critiquing McDonald's new offering of "Fruit and Maple Oatmeal" generated hundreds of fascinating online comments from readers. ("How to Make Oatmeal...Wrong"). I was inspired to pick up some organic rolled oats from my natural food store and get to work refining my favorite oatmeal recipe, just in time for the Bay Area's last blast of windy wet winter weather.

Oatmeal is quick, easy, cheap, nutritious and satisfying; anyone from the age of eight up can make a great bowl of oatmeal in five minutes flat with some plain bulk rolled oats as seen in the photo above- no special quick or instant versions necessary- and a few added ingredients. Here's how. Makes one serving.

Real Oatmeal with Medjool Dates & Toasted Almonds

1/2 cup organic rolled oats
1 cup plain soy milk
1/2 cup fresh water
1 pinch sea salt
1 tablespoon golden raisins
2- 3 Medjool dates, pitted and chopped
1 teaspoon nut butter (almond, peanut or other)
1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional)
toasted chopped almonds

Put oats, soy milk, water and sea salt in a small pan; cover and bring to a simmer. Add raisins and dates, cover and cook gently on low heat for about 5 minutes. If you prefer creamier oatmeal, stir well and cook for a few more minutes. If oatmeal is too thick, add a bit more water or soy milk; if too thin, remove lid and continue cooking until the cereal thickens. Stir in nut butter and maple syrup if using, and serve immediately in a warm bowl. Garnish with toasted almonds.

Note: "How to Make Oatmeal...Wrong" by Mark Bittman can be found below right by clicking on my twitter feed; look for February 22 tweet.

Warm Winter Purple Peruvian Potato Salad

2011-02-14T15:39:00.000-08:00

This satisfying warm salad is a complete meal in a bowl that can be put together in two easy steps. Steam the potatoes and Brussels sprouts, then cut up vegetables and toss with olive oil, vinegar and sea salt. The recipe calls for medium sized potatoes but small ones are excellent if available. (For deep background on these ancient heirloom potatoes, see earlier post titled "Purple Peruvian Potatoes: The Gem of the Andes"). Recipe makes about 3 servings.

Warm Winter Purple Peruvian Potato Salad

3 medium purple Peruvian potatoes, steamed, peeled and cubed
10 - 12 medium Brussels sprouts, halved and steamed
2 red cherry bomb peppers, (or other fresh hot pepper) seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons leek (use some of the green part) thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)
sea salt to taste
1 handful raw or toasted almonds, chopped, for garnish (optional)

Potatoes may be halved before steaming to speed cooking. Place halves in a pan with almost enough water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover pan, and cook on low heat until just barely tender. In a separate pan, cook halved Brussels sprouts using the same technique; remove from pan when still bright green and just tender; you may cut them into quarters at this point if you wish. While vegetables are steaming, chop peppers and leek and set aside.

Place cooked potatoes on cutting board and allow to cool briefly, then peel and cube. Place in a heated ceramic or glass bowl with Brussels sprouts, leek and red pepper. Toss lightly, adding oil, vinegar and sea salt. Taste and correct seasoning. Serve immediately in warm bowls, garnished with chopped almonds.

Lunar New Year ~ Spring Festival

2011-02-01T09:52:00.001-08:00

Throughout the Asian world, the Lunar New Year- Spring Festival is observed on the second new moon after the winter solstice. In Chinese the holiday is called Chun jie, in Korean Seol-na, in Vietnamese Tet, in Tibetan Losar and in Japanese Risshun. According to Chinese and Korean tradition, this is the year of the hare; for Vietnamese and Tibetans, it's the year of the cat.

In San Francisco, the dark days of winter are quickly becoming lighter; the plum trees are in full bloom, and the energy of spring is in the air, even though the official first day of spring is weeks away.

Noodles are among the traditional foods eaten on Lunar New Year; for instructions on how to prepare soba noodles (in less than 10 minutes) see post entitled "Soba Noodle Basics".

Purple Peruvian Potatoes: The Gem of the Andes

2011-01-25T09:14:00.001-08:00

From the outside, the purple Peruvian potato looks unappealing and even unappetizing, but its lumpy dark exterior hides a beautiful amethyst hued interior of superior flavor and nutritional value. First cultivated in the Andean highlands (the altiplano), the purple potato is just one of thousands of potato varieties which were domesticated more than seven thousand years ago and were a major source of food for the Incas; the Quechua word "papa" is the linguistic root of the English word "potato".

The antioxidant phytochemical anthocyanin lends the potato its purple- blue color. (In Greek anthos= flower; kyanos= blue). Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds which are present in many fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds; cranberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, grapes, purple cabbage and olives are a few examples. Research indicates that there are many health benefits to be gained from eating plant foods which are high in anthocyanins and other antioxidants; cooking does not destroy the anthocyanins in these potatoes, which also contain good amounts of protein and vitamin C.

Purple Peruvian potatoes can be grown in any small backyard garden in Northern California; they evolved to thrive in cool climates with short daylight conditions. Some produce markets carry these and other heirloom potatoes; select a few with visible buds or "eyes" and plant them in loose soil, water occasionally, and wait. Potato plants require little care and will continue to propagate year after year. It's best to select a spot in the garden which you can segregate, as the plants will take over as much territory as you allow them to.

When shopping for Peruvian potatoes, look for firm, unblemished specimens which are small or medium in size; larger ones take longer to cook and may not be as flavorful as the smaller ones. Those which have a few buds are perfectly edible; buds are a sign that the potatoes have not been chemically treated. Store in a cool place in your pantry; their shelf life is good and they are a great staple to have on hand for quick meals.

Recipe to follow!

White Bean & Barley Cholent: A Winter Cassoulet

2011-01-04T04:18:00.000-08:00

During a recent chilly, rainy week I had a sudden yen for a bowl of cholent, the traditional slow simmered dish beloved by generations of European Jews and their descendants in the diaspora. Cholent typically contains a combination of beans, barley, potatoes and meat seasoned with onions and garlic; it is cooked overnight in a heavy covered dish and eaten as the main meal on Shabbat, the day of rest. Jews of Middle Eastern heritage prepare a similar recipe called hamin (Hebrew for "hot"); the equivalent North African dish is known as deffina.

Both cholent and hamin closely resemble the rustic French slow cooked cassoulet; in fact some sources claim that cholent was the predecessor of cassoulet and that etymologically, cholent is derived from the French words chaud (hot) and lent (slow). Much lively discussion can be had about the origins of cholent, its preparation and which ingredients are truly authentic, but what really matters is the final result: a satisfying, warming meal to be savored slowly in the cold days of winter.

This vegan rendition of cholent/ cassoulet is simple to assemble; it may be cooked on the stove top or in the oven. You may also begin the cooking process on the stove and continue it in the oven. Use a heavy pot with a thick bottom and a tight lid. The beans and barley need about an hour to cook thoroughly but the flavor will deepen with longer cooking. The ratio of beans to barley is flexible and may be altered to your taste. To slow bake in the traditional manner, set oven at 225 degrees and cook for at least three hours or overnight.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 bay leaves
1+1/2 cups white beans, soaked 6- 8 hours
1 cup pearl barley
6 cups or more fresh water
1 large carrot, sliced into rounds
2 or 3 small Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered
1 teaspoon dried sage leaves
1/2 teaspoon sea salt (or to taste)
1- 2 teaspoons good quality paprika

In a heavy soup pot saute leek, celery and garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add bay leaves, beans, barley and water. There should be at least one inch of water covering the beans and barley; most of the liquid will be absorbed during cooking. Bring to a boil and lower heat to a simmer. Place a flame tamer beneath the pot to ensure even heat and to prevent scorching. Allow to cook for at least 45 minutes or until beans and barley are tender, adding more water as needed. Layer carrot slices and potatoes on top of beans and barley, sprinkle with sage leaves, sea salt and paprika. Cover pot and allow to cook another 20 or 25 minutes or until vegetables are tender.

The finished dish will be very thick; serve in warm bowls garnished with a little chopped parsley or other green. Store cholent/cassoulet in glass containers in fridge for several days. For a quick meal heat thoroughly, adding water as needed to create a bowl of bean & barley stew as seen in the photo above.

Year's End

2010-12-31T04:13:00.000-08:00

Year's end-
a red leaf
falling to the ground.

Satsuma Season!

2010-12-16T05:18:00.000-08:00

Just as the northern California grape harvest is winding down, the first Satsuma mandarins begin to appear in my local markets and I quickly forget how much I miss those delicious autumn grapes. Satsumas (citrus unshiu Marcovitch) are an intensely flavorful healthy winter fruit, packed with vitamin C, A and other valuable nutrients. Small in size and seedless, Satsumas are easy to peel and section, making them a perfect portable snack to be eaten anywhere.

The first Satsumas were cultivated more than 700 years ago in southern Japan, and were later introduced to Wenzhou, China. In Japan and China, the fruit is still called "the honey citrus of Wenzhou". In the late 19th century, Satsuma trees were shipped from Satsuma Province on Kyushu Island to the United States, where by the early 1900's the tangerine industry took root in the lower Gulf States. Satsumas are the most cold resistant citrus crop; they are well suited to the climatic conditions of the Sacramento- San Joaquin Valley which is where the entire California Satsuma crop is grown.

When shopping for Satsumas, be careful to select fruit which is free of blemishes, as the somewhat fragile peel can be damaged during harvest and shipping. Good quality Satsumas will keep well for three weeks or more; store some in the fridge for longer periods and keep others at room temperature for daily consumption. The harvest usually begins in late November; by mid December Satsumas are plentiful and affordable, so now is the time to stock up on this fabulous "honey citrus", a delicious taste of ancient Japan!

Cabbage: A Sweet & Sour Saute

2010-12-02T14:47:00.000-08:00

Mention the word "cabbage" and it will not be greeted with enthusiasm or excitement. There's nothing glamorous about this humble vegetable which is descended from the wild mustard plant and has its origins in the Mediterranean region. Cabbage and its other brassica oleracea relatives have been cultivated for over four thousand years and are an important food staple for millions of people around the world.

A notably prolific crop, cabbage yields more pounds per acre than almost any other vegetable; China, India, Russia, Ukraine, South Korea, Japan and the U.S. are among the countries which grow thousands of tons annually. In many northern regions, pickled and preserved cabbage have provided crucial calories and nutrients, including generous amounts of vitamin C, during long cold winters when little fresh produce was available. Ethnic food has been greatly enriched by the use of cabbage dishes such as kim chi, sauerkraut, coleslaw and borscht.

This recipe was inspired by the stuffed cabbage, sweet and sour meatballs, cabbage strudel and other delicacies I recall from childhood. Simple to make yet delicious and satisfying, this dish pairs well with a bowl of brown rice, millet or kasha or perhaps with a piece of baked or steamed winter squash. If you're making potato latkes this week, this bright green slightly crunchy cabbage is the perfect accompaniment.

2 tablespoons olive oil (more if needed)
2 cups leek or onion, thinly sliced
2 fresh jalapeno peppers, thinly sliced (optional)
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1 medium green cabbage, finely shredded
2/3 cup golden raisins
2 teaspoons maple syrup
2 - 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2/3 teaspoon sea salt (or to taste)
1 teaspoon good quality Hungarian paprika (optional)

Heat olive oil in a heavy bottomed pan and saute leek, jalapeno and garlic until fragrant and golden. Add cabbage and stir a bit, adding a little more olive oil if necessary. Stir in raisins and continue cooking on a medium flame; within two or three minutes, the cabbage will begin to wilt and reduce in volume. Add maple syrup, vinegar and sea salt and continue cooking for another three to five minutes until cabbage is wilted but still green and somewhat crunchy. Remove from heat; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately with a little dusting of paprika.

Special Spicy Cranberry Pear Compote

2010-11-18T11:18:00.000-08:00

Cranberries are a native North American fruit which the Algonquin people referred to as Sassamanash or "bitter berry". The health supportive properties of cranberries are legendary; stories about the Pilgrims claim that they were saved from vitamin C deficiency when the native population introduced them to the fruit.

In this easy recipe the combination of aromatic spices, fruit and honey sweetens and mellows the bitter berry without drowning it in too much sugar. Choose very ripe pears for optimal flavor; golden raisins add another dimension of subtle sweetness.

It takes only minutes to assemble and cook this dish which will perfume your kitchen with a delightful fragrance. Plan on preparing the compote at least a few hours before serving as its flavors and sweetness continue to develop as it cools.

3 cups whole cranberries
2 - 3 ripe pears, peeled & diced
1 apple, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, very finely chopped
1 cinnamon stick
1 pinch sea salt
1 cup organic apple juice or water
1/2 cup honey
1 teaspoon grated orange peel

Place all ingredients except honey and orange peel in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower heat immediately and simmer gently for 5 - 10 minutes until pears and apple are soft, adding a little more juice or water if necessary. Stir in honey and cook another 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from heat, add orange peel, and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before tasting to correct seasoning. Store in clean glass jars in fridge for several days. Best served at room temperature.

Hachiya!

2010-11-08T20:11:00.000-08:00

Persimmon season is here, and the first Hachiyas and Fuyus are arriving in the markets. These are the two persimmon varieties most familiar to North Americans, at least by sight if not by name; Hachiyas are tall and pointy, shaped like a big acorn; Fuyus are flat and squat, resembling a tomato in shape.

The most important fact about Hachiya persimmons is their astringency; they contain a high percentage of tannins which slowly disappear as the fruit ripens. Eating a partially ripe Hachiya is a very unpleasant experience and many people never eat another after encountering the intensely bitter astringent taste of incompletely ripened fruit. (This does guarantee that Hachiya aficionados get to horde more fruit for themselves).

However, a perfectly ripe Hachiya is one of the most delicious fruits on earth; it is worth learning how to correctly judge its ripeness in order to enjoy this exceptional treat. The Hachiya must be totally soft from tip to stem in order to be edible, so soft that ripe ones are almost impossible to transport home from the market undamaged.

It's best to purchase Hachiyas which are firm or just slightly soft. Select those which are deep orange in color, smooth and free of breaks or bruises in the skin. Some Hachiyas have darkish spots from sun exposure as in the photo above, but this pigmentation does not detract from the quality of the fruit. If the skin of the persimmon is intact, it can be allowed to ripen for as long as necessary without spoiling.

Store Hachiyas at room temperature in a location where you will be able to monitor their progress daily. If you have purchased a good quantity at the height of the season, most likely the individual persimmons will ripen at different rates. Very ripe Hachiyas can be held for a few days in the fridge but for optimal flavor, plan on using the fruit as soon as it ripens.

The persimmon season is short, so if you find good quality fruit in your market, don't delay. Once you've tasted your first ultra sweet velvety Hachiya persimmon, you'll want more. Gather your persimmons today, or wait for next season!

Decadent Hachiya Dessert

This recipe creates a beautiful luxurious dessert in seconds. Blend very ripe room temperature Hachiya persimmons with soy or nut milk and flavorings until smooth. Serve immediately in small glass dessert bowls.

2 Hachiya persimmons, calyx removed
1 cup soy milk or nut milk (+ a little more if needed)
1 pinch each: nutmeg, cinnamon, powdered ginger
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Note: Serves 2 slightly greedy persimmon lovers.

Delicata Squash in Aromatic Miso Broth

2010-10-24T12:48:00.000-07:00

Delicata is one of many varieties of winter squash now arriving abundantly in produce markets. As the name implies, Delicata has a subtle creamy texture and flavor and is a bit less sweet than most other winter squash; its elongated shape and modest size makes it easy to handle and slice. Winter squash keeps well and is a good staple to have on hand for impromptu steaming, baking or soup making during cool rainy weather in the Bay Area.

This recipe is inspired by one of my favorite Japanese country soups known as oden. Classic oden is made with dashi, a sea vegetable stock which is a staple of traditional Japanese cuisine. The other ingredients are cooked separately and added to the dashi, creating a flavorful broth studded with satisfying chunks of tender seasonal vegetables, roasted whole eggs, fish balls, tofu and other delicacies.

When making this much simpler vegan rendition (which cannot really be called oden), the vegetables are cut into chunks and simmered gently directly in the broth until tender but not falling apart. Vegetables which require less cooking are added after the denser ones have cooked for a while. When the soup is done and the heat is off, the miso is added. (For more about cooking with miso see earlier post "Miso Demystified"). The thickness of vegetable slices is approximate; just remember that the size and density of the vegetables will affect cooking time.

6 cups fresh water
1 large carrot, cut into pieces about 1 inch long
1 piece leek about 6 inches long, sliced into segments 1- 2 inches long
2 celery ribs, cut into segments 1- 2 inches long
2 or 3 strips kombu or wakame sea vegetable (optional)
3 or 4 small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in half
2 fresh jalapeno peppers, whole
1 or 2 whole garlic cloves
1 bay leaf
4 or 5 sprigs parsley
1 tablespoon Mirin rice wine (optional)
1 medium delicata squash, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds (seeds removed)
1 medium zucchini, sliced into 1 inch rounds
2 tablespoons white miso paste
lemon juice

Place water, carrot, leek, celery, sea vegetable (if using), potatoes, jalapenos, garlic and bay leaf in a soup pot. Bring to a boil and lower heat. Place parsley sprigs on top of other vegetables, cover and simmer gently for about 10 minutes. Add rice wine (if using) and Delicata squash slices to pot, cover and continue to simmer another 10 minutes or so. If vegetables are not mostly covered in broth, add a little more water. Add zucchini slices and continue cooking a few more minutes until zucchini is almost tender. (About 5 minutes). In a small bowl, dissolve miso paste in a few tablespoons of soup broth, return mixture to pot and turn off heat. Allow soup to rest about 5 minutes; taste and add more dissolved miso paste if needed.

Remove garlic, jalapenos, sea vegetable and bay leaf. Serve soup in warm bowls with lemon slices as a garnish. Sea vegetable and jalapeno may be sliced into strips and added to each serving at the table.

Note: Baked tofu cut into cubes is another delicious garnish which may be added at the table. Warm the cubes briefly in a small skillet before serving.

Gazpacho!

2010-10-10T22:10:00.000-07:00

This week my kitchen counters are crowded with freshly harvested Northern California produce; fragrant pale green apples from the East Bay, colorful winter squash from Santa Cruz, and ripe tomatoes from Sonoma- lots and lots of very ripe tomatoes. Apples and squash will keep well but the tomatoes will not, so I turned to a solution which creative cooks invented centuries ago: gazpacho!

Gazpacho, which the Oxford English Dictionary defines as a Spanish soup made with tomatoes and other vegetables, most likely originated in Andalusia; sources more fanciful than the OED claim that the word derives from the Arabic for "soaked bread". Whatever its origins, the combination of tomato and other vegetables, vinegar, olive oil and bread has venerable roots in the agricultural societies around the Mediterranean. A simpler and more deliciously refreshing way to savor the season's best tomatoes does not exist.

Although the recipe provides exact measurements, don't be inhibited by them. Start with some really ripe flavorful tomatoes and add just a few more quality ingredients to the mix. Although I prefer the flavor of an all vegetable gazpacho, you may blend in a slice of leftover baguette as is traditional. It takes only minutes to make this ultra healthy energizing meal in a bowl; wash and chop vegetables, blend and serve!

4 cups ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons celery, chopped
2 tablespoons leek, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
juice of 2 or more lemons
2 teaspoons unflavored vinegar (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
a few fresh or dried basil leaves or oregano
fresh water as needed

garnish options:

1 cup tomatoes, cubed
1 cup cucumber, cubed
1 cup sweet yellow or red peppers
2 jalapeno peppers, diced

Place tomatoes, celery, leek, and garlic in blender and pulse a few times until tomatoes begin to liquefy; blend vegetables in stages if blender is too full. Add lemon juice, vinegar if using, olive oil, salt and basil, and pulse gently a few more times, adding a little water if mixture seems too thick. If you prefer a very smooth textured gazpacho, continue to blend.

Taste and correct seasoning, adding more lemon juice or vinegar and salt as desired. The gazpacho flavor will develop if you allow it to rest for a few minutes; if weather is warm, chill gazpacho briefly before serving. Gazpacho's fresh sparkling flavor is best enjoyed shortly after it is made.

Serve in individual chilled bowls; place garnishes on table in small bowls and allow diners to add their choice. Or for a quick light meal or snack, blend a smaller quantity of the gazpacho ingredients and serve without garnish in a glass.

Autumn is Harvest

2010-09-29T09:29:00.000-07:00

Autumn Harvest Festivals:
Agricultural societies in many parts of the northern hemisphere harvest their major crops in the autumn. In China the primary harvest is celebrated in autumn with the Moon Festival; it coincides with the full moon. The Jewish world observes the harvest festival of Sukkot during the first full moon following Rosh HaShana, and Canadians have their Thanksgiving holiday in October. The original American Thanksgiving is thought to have been held in early autumn, immediately after the harvest; in later years its date was pushed to the end of November for commercial purposes.

Harvest Etymology:
Linguistically, harvest is synonymous with autumn. Until the 16th century, "harvest" was the word English speakers used to refer to the autumn season; it is a direct derivative of the Old High German word "herbist" and the later German "herbst" which mean "autumn". The word in Old English is "haerfest"; the Dutch is "herfst". The Oxford English Dictionary defines "harvest" as follows:

1. The third season of the year, autumn.
2. The season for the cutting and gathering in of ripened grain and other produce.
3. The crop of ripened grain.

The OED offers this quote from Milton to illustrate proper usage of the word:

"Seed time and Harvest and hoary Frost shall hold their course."

Autumn Haiku:

Autumn moonlight-
a worm digs silently
into the chestnut

--Basho, 1644- 1694

A Pear is Wabi Sabi

2010-09-07T09:07:00.000-07:00

Wabi sabi is a Japanese expression which describes the beauty of things which are transient, imperfect, incomplete, rustic, simple, serene and melancholy.

Wabi is translated as meaning simple, humble, healthy or normal. Sabi literally means rusty but it also refers to the elegant beauty of something as it matures and ages. Some sources state that the term wabi sabi was originally used to describe the aesthetic beauty of a rusty tea kettle in which water was boiled for the traditional tea ceremony. Tea ceremony implements which embody the value of wabi sabi are highly prized by practitioners.

The beauty of a ripe pear may be appreciated only briefly; its color, fragrance and taste are at their peak when it reaches maturity. Whether the pear is picked and eaten or allowed to fall from the tree its existence is momentary; the pear harvest signals the end of summer, the coming of autumn and the cold dark days of winter.

A pear is wabi sabi.

Summer Squash & Tomato Salad: Warm Is Cool

2010-08-27T08:27:00.000-07:00

This minimalist composed salad is a simple combination of steamed summer squash, fresh raw tomatoes and herbs. Ultra ripe flavorful tomatoes such as dry farmed, heirloom or home grown are best for this recipe. Fresh aromatic herbs like basil, parsley or oregano are a perfect compliment to the delicate warm squash and the cool tangy tomato.

4 summer squash, sliced less than 1/4 inch thick
2- 3 medium tomatoes, sliced about 1/4 inch thick
fresh herbs such as Italian parsley, basil or oregano

2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 2 large lemons
2 or 3 tablespoons water
2 pinches sea salt or to taste
2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves

Steam squash slices until just tender. While squash is cooking, slice tomatoes and arrange on a platter. Make salad dressing by combining olive oil, lemon juice, water, sea salt and oregano in a glass jar. Shake well, taste and adjust seasoning.

Remove squash carefully from steamer basket. Compose salad by placing a layer of warm squash on top of tomato slices; make another layer if there are more vegetables. Garnish with parsley or basil leaves.

Serve salad immediately on individual plates; sprinkle liberally with salad dressing. Wrap extra salad well and store in the fridge; it will taste great the next day.

Summer Squash: A Thing of Beauty!

2010-08-18T20:18:00.000-07:00

Right now in almost every region of the country, green, yellow, gold, speckled and zebra striped summer squash is piling up in produce stands and markets. Although summer squash is not as densely nutritious as orange winter squash or many dark leafy greens, it provides healthful amounts of beta carotene, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium, calcium, fiber and even a little protein.

The sweet mild flavor of summer squash pairs well with other seasonal vegetables and herbs. For the best quality, select squash which is smooth, unblemished and brightly colored. Large overly mature squash can be tough and flavorless; it is best delegated to the compost bin. Fresh squash keeps for several days if handled gently and stored in a loosely closed plastic bag in the fridge.

The squash plant, genus Curcubita, has been cultivated for roughly 10,000 years. It is native to Mexico and Central America, but our name for it is a legacy of the Naragansett people of New England who called it "Askutasquash" which means "a green thing eaten raw". Perhaps the Naragansett were also challenged by the summer glut of this prolific fruit of the earth. But raw or cooked, green, gold or speckled, summer squash is a delicious thing of beauty!

Summer squash & tomato salad recipe to follow.

White Bean Bisque with Fresh Herbs

2010-08-10T08:10:00.000-07:00

White beans are a versatile staple which require little effort to prepare and which can be transformed into an endless variety of quick delicious meals. Cooking legumes is easy! Use dried beans which have not been stored in your pantry for too long; older beans may have less flavor and take longer to cook. Pick over the beans and soak in fresh water for 6- 8 hours or overnight; drain soaking water before cooking. Cook beans in a heavy soup pot; a flame tamer will distribute heat evenly and prevent burning.

This luxurious jade green soup is made in two simple steps. In the first, the beans are cooked; in the second the bisque is processed in a blender, heated briefly and served. The recipe calls for fresh herbs such as basil, Italian parsley, oregano or cilantro; a combination of two or three herbs works well but even one will suffice. (You can also use fresh spinach or arugula leaves in the same manner.) The herbs are pureed with the cooked beans, resulting in an aromatic bisque which may be enjoyed hot or chilled.

White Beans: Basic cooking method

2 cups cannellini or other white beans, soaked and drained
5- 6 cups fresh water
3 cloves garlic, whole
1 large bay leaf
2 ribs celery, whole
2 medium carrots, whole
2 fresh jalapeno or serrano peppers, whole

Place the soaked and drained beans in a soup pot with fresh water. Bring to a simmer over a medium flame, add remaining ingredients and cover. Allow beans to simmer gently until tender which will take 30- 45 minutes; add more water if necessary while cooking. When beans are done, remove vegetables from pot and set them aside to use later as you wish. Store beans and cooking broth in clean glass jars in the fridge for up to several days.

White Bean Bisque with Fresh Herbs

2 cups cooked cannellini beans
1+1/2 cups plain soy milk (approx)
1/2 cup broth from cooking beans (approx)
2 teaspoons white miso paste
(or 1/4 teaspoon sea salt, more to taste)
1 handful fresh basil, Italian parsley and oregano leaves
1 fresh jalapeno or serrano pepper, chopped

Place beans, soy milk and miso in blender and process until smooth, then blend in herbs and jalapeno. Add more liquid if needed; the bisque should not be too thin but the consistency is up to you. Extra herbs may be used for a more intense flavor.

Gently heat bisque until just warmed through; over heating will alter the delicate flavor and color of the herbs. Serve immediately in warm bowls; garnish with a few fresh oregano leaves.

Summer: When The Fire is on the Planet

2010-08-01T20:18:00.000-07:00

According to the words of the Yellow Emperor, whose Classic of Medicine dates from the second century BCE, summer is the season of "The hot weather, the Fire on the planet, the blood vessels, the color red, laughter and joy..."

The Heart, which houses the spirit and moves the blood, is the organ associated with the summer season; compassion and the surrender of ego are its tasks and love is its positive manifestation.

In summer, one is instructed "to be happy and easygoing and not hold grudges, so that the energy can flow freely and circulate between the external and the internal. In this way illnesses may be averted..."

-- Neijing Suwen circa 240 BCE (The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Medicine)

Photo: Dahlia Garden in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco

Aji? Peruvian Salsa Verde!

2010-07-22T07:22:00.000-07:00

I was first introduced to this classic Peruvian hot sauce years ago by a native of the Amazonian city of Iquitos; it soon became my favorite green salsa and I've been making it ever since in my San Francisco kitchen. Aji is a heady blend of hot chiles, fresh cilantro, lime juice, olive oil and garlic; its exhilarating flavor quickly becomes habit forming. Yet this beautiful brilliant green treat takes only moments to prepare; all that is needed is a blender and a few simple ingredients.

It's easy to regulate the heat of the aji by adjusting the type of chiles you select. Fresh jalapeno and serrano chiles can be found in many ethnic produce markets; they provide excellent flavor and potent but not stratospheric heat. Removing the seeds from the peppers will tone down their burn. If you want to turn up the temperature, use serranos instead of jalapenos, or add a few small green Thai "bird" chiles to the mix.

Wash the cilantro thoroughly before chopping; use the stems as well as the leaves. The measurements in the recipe are simply a guideline; don't be too concerned about the exact amounts. After you've followed the recipe once or twice, you'll be comfortable making aji without measuring.

Be careful not to touch your face or eyes when handling chile peppers; their oil and juice can cause painful burning upon contact with sensitive tissues. Wash hands well during and after preparation of this recipe.

3 or 4 medium fresh jalapenos, roughly chopped
1 large clove garlic, halved
1/4 cup fresh lime or lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

Place jalapenos, garlic, lime juice, olive oil and salt in blender. Pulse until ingredients begin to liquefy. Add cilantro in stages and pulse until mixture is fairly smooth; use a bit more olive oil or lime juice if the aji seems too thick. Store aji in a clean glass jar in the fridge; its bright green color and flavor will keep well for several days.

Cilantro!

2010-07-12T14:13:00.000-07:00

Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley; all refer to the same plant whose botanical name is coriandrum sativum. A member of the parsley family, cilantro is native to the eastern Mediterranean region and has a history of thousands of years of culinary and medicinal use. Coriander seed pods which date back more than 7000 years have been discovered in ancient caves by Israeli archeologists; the seed is mentioned by name in the Hebrew Bible in what must be its earliest literary reference.

Cilantro's fresh aromatic flavor as well as its ultra healthy nutrients make it a valuable kitchen staple; its roots, seeds and leaves are prized by cooks of many ethnicities. Cilantro and parsley are the two top U.S. fresh herbs; the market value of the California cilantro crop now exceeds $30 million annually. An ample supply of affordable organic California grown cilantro is available year round.

When shopping for cilantro, select fresh bright green unwilted specimens. Cilantro does not have a long shelf life but when handled properly it will keep for several days in your fridge. Before storing cilantro, remove wire fasteners or rubber bands, discard damaged or discolored leaves and wrap the stems in a clean damp paper towel. Place in a clean dry plastic bag without crushing the leaves; close loosely. Remember to wash cilantro thoroughly before using.

It's easy to incorporate cilantro into your kitchen repertoire; chop a handful and add to raw vegetable or fruit salads, stir fried vegetables, soups and stews. Garnish your favorite legume dishes with cilantro, lemon or lime juice and fresh chile peppers. Special cilantro recipe to follow!

Wildflowers: Nature's Fireworks

2010-07-04T06:16:00.000-07:00

Northwestern Indian Paintbrush ( Castilleja Angustifolia)
Presidio, San Francisco

Red Bean Chile: It's Hot!

2010-06-25T05:25:00.000-07:00

When summer arrives in San Francisco and thick fog rolls through the Golden Gate sending a chill across the city, the time is right for a flavorful bowl of spicy red bean chile. Take some time on a gray afternoon to sink into this recipe which will fill your kitchen with the aroma of an authentic home crafted meal.

Although small red beans are my choice for this recipe, pinto, kidney, anasazi or azuki work equally well. It's best to use beans which have not been languishing in your pantry for months; aged beans lack flavor and may take longer to cook. Pick over the beans, rinse well and soak in fresh water for at least 6 hours before cooking. This recipe may be prepared a day or so before eating; its flavor will deepen overnight.

2- 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup leek or onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, thinly sliced
1 cup cilantro or Italian parsley, chopped
1- 2 large bay leaves
2 cups small red beans, soaked and rinsed
5- 6 cups fresh water
6 ounces tomato paste
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1- 2 teaspoons crushed dried red chile peppers
1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon dried or fresh marjoram or oregano
1 tablespoon dried or fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon white miso paste

Heat olive oil in a heavy soup pot and saute leek, garlic and celery until fragrant; add carrot and cilantro and continue to saute briefly. Add bay leaves, beans and water, cover, and bring to a gentle simmer. Place a flame tamer under the pot and cook on a moderate flame for about an hour or until beans are tender, adding more water if necessary. Stir in remaining ingredients except miso; simmer for another 10 minutes. Place a few tablespoons of the chile in a bowl, add miso paste and blend; stir mixture into pot and remove from heat. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve hot in preheated bowls; garnish with your choice of chopped cilantro, chopped fresh ripe tomato, or your favorite salsa. Eat slowly; watch fog!

Blue is for Berries!

2010-06-14T16:10:00.000-07:00

Wild blueberries were a valuable seasonal food gathered by Native Americans of the Northeast for thousands of years, just as huckleberries were to the native peoples of Northern California and the Pacific Northwest. But it wasn't until the early 20th century in the state of New Jersey that blueberries were first domesticated for large scale cultivation. Since then, North America has become the world's largest blueberry producer; British Columbia, Maine, Michigan, New Jersey, Nova Scotia, Oregon and Quebec are among the top growers.

Until recently, California had virtually no blueberry crop, as the available varieties thrived only in cool moist climates. Thanks to the dedicated work of scientists at the University of Florida in the 1990's, hybrid blueberry varieties have been developed which grow well in warmer climates and the California blueberry crop has blossomed. Last year's harvest weighed in at 20 million pounds and the increasing demand for this delicious nutrient dense fruit is driving those numbers ever higher. As production has grown, prices for what has long been a luxury item in California have fallen and fresh blueberries can be found at more affordable prices during the height of the growing season.

Berries of all sorts have lately become the focus of much interest for their healthy properties, and a growing body of new research indicates that the antioxidants and other nutrients in berries may be important keys to protection against certain cancers, improving memory and learning capacity, lowering LDL cholesterol, maintaining normal blood sugar levels and supporting healthy eyesight. Anthocyanins are the purple- blue antioxidant compounds which make blueberries blue; they are also present in significant amounts in many other plant foods such as cherries, red and purple grapes, red cabbage, beets, cranberries, blood oranges, strawberries and cocoa.

Fresh blueberries are most nutritious when eaten raw; enjoy them solo for snacks at work or school, or add a handful to your favorite fruit salad. For a special treat, blend blueberries with nut milk or soy milk; serve immediately in chilled glasses. Summer is the season for blue velvet smoothies!

Apricot Smoothie: Summer in a Glass

2010-06-01T10:20:00.000-07:00

Apricots are among the first stone fruits to appear in produce markets in late spring, soon to be followed by peaches, plums and nectarines. Fresh fruit smoothies are a seasonal delight, simple to make and redolent of the flavors of summer. All that's needed to create an energizing light meal or snack is a handful of very ripe fruit, some nut milk or soy milk and a blender.

Apricot Smoothie

1 + 1/2 cups apricots, halved and pitted
1 + 1/2 cups fresh nut milk or plain soy milk

Place ingredients in blender and process until smooth; you may adjust the ratio of fruit to nut milk to your taste. Serve apricot smoothie immediately in chilled glasses. For instructions on how to make fresh almond milk, see earlier post titled "Raw Almond Milk" listed under the label "nuts & seeds". When you'd prefer a thicker more substantial smoothie, add one or more of the following:

raw cashews
medjul dates
banana

Medjul dates will sweeten and thicken the smoothie. Soak a few medjuls in fresh water in a clean jar over night; they will be easy to blend. Dates will keep for several days in the fridge; add liquid from soaking to smoothies.

Red Lentils: A 10,000 year old legume

2010-05-20T22:20:00.000-07:00

When the legendary hunter Esau returned home to the family tent, famished from a day spent tracking game, he insisted on eating a bowl of lentils, not meat. "Let me swallow that red, some of that red stuff..." he said to his brother Jacob, who then gave him the lentils he was cooking. (Yes, there's much more to that story; you can look it up).

A valuable source of protein and other essential nutrients, lentils have been cultivated in the Near East since the Neolithic Era (circa 9500 BCE) making them one of the earliest crops domesticated by humans. In South Asia, home to a large vegetarian culture, lentils of many varieties are a daily staple for millions. Their versatility and satisfying flavor have created a remarkable culinary tradition from which every home chef can draw inspiration.

Red lentils are small and split into halves, making them among the easiest legumes to prepare as they require less than a half hour to cook. Once you learn this basic lentil recipe, create your own variations by incorporating your favorite spices and herbs. Dried red lentils will keep well in your pantry, ready for impromptu meals using any seasonal vegetables you have on hand. There is no need to pre-soak the lentils, but do pick them over and wash them before continuing preparation.

Red Lentil Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 dried red chile peppers, crumbled
2/3 cup cilantro or Italian parsley, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 bay leaf
2 medium sweet potatoes, diced
2 cups red lentils
5 - 6 cups fresh water
1 - 2 tablespoons white miso paste (or sea salt to taste)
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon fresh or dried marjoram or oregano
2 small zucchinis, thinly sliced
juice of one large lemon

In a thick bottomed soup pot, saute leek, garlic and chile peppers in olive oil until fragrant. Add cilantro, celery and carrot, and continue to saute a few more minutes on a medium flame; if needed add a bit more olive oil. Add bay leaf, sweet potatoes, lentils and water. Stir well, cover soup and bring to a gentle simmer. Stir occasionally and allow to cook on a low flame for 20- 30 minutes, adding more water if soup is too thick. When lentils are soft, remove about a cupful from the pot, place in a bowl and stir in miso, paprika and marjoram. Return miso mixture to the pot. Add zucchini slices, cover, and allow soup to rest for a few minutes on a very low flame without bubbling until zucchini is tender. Stir in lemon juice and serve in warm soup bowls garnished with lemon slices, chopped cilantro and more chile pepper.

Fresh Favas are Fabulous!

2010-05-09T21:00:00.000-07:00

Yes, I know. Preparing fresh fava beans is a lot of work. All that husking, steaming and peeling; the big mound of green pods which shrinks into a modest bowl of beans, the dark fava juice stains on your fingertips, the pile of empty husks to schlep out to the compost bin. But there's nothing as fabulous in the height of springtime as a bowl of delicate fresh fave to savor slowly after hard labor.

The fava season is very short and is awaited eagerly by aficionados. If you spot fresh favas in the produce market, take a generous quantity home or you may have to wait till next spring for another opportunity. Select unblemished pods and avoid any which have begun to split open or are too large, as this indicates that the beans are overly mature.

Shelling favas can be a pleasant meditative activity; sit with a bowl in your lap and enjoy the simple task of splitting open the pods and removing the beans. To cook, bring a pot of fresh water to a boil; add the beans and simmer gently for three to five minutes until just tender. Remove from heat immediately, drain and immerse in a bowl of cold water to prevent further cooking.

When cool enough to handle, remove the thin outer skin from each bright green bean (more meditation, more compost!) Place peeled favas in a bowl, sprinkle with olive oil, fresh lemon juice and a little sea salt. Serve immediately and with the first taste you'll agree that this fabulous slow food is worth every minute of preparation!

Health note: A genetic disorder known as G6PD deficiency, most common in individuals of African, Middle Eastern and South Asian heritage, can cause critical illness following consumption of fava beans. For further information, please Google "favism" or "G6PD deficiency".

Artichoke: An Ancient Thistle

2010-04-28T07:18:00.000-07:00

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word artichoke was originally an Arabic term, al kharsuf. Artichoke cultivation has been traced to ninth century North Africa; when the edible thistle was introduced to Spain in the middle ages it took on the Old Spanish name, alcarchofa; in ancient Italy it was called articiocco, which is clearly where the English word originated. The French say artichaut, and may comment that someone has "coeur d'artichaut, une feuille pour tout le monde". (A heart like an artichoke, a leaf for everyone.)

Artichokes grow well in California which produces 100% of the U.S. commercial crop. It is a thrill to see the rows and rows of silvery gray artichoke plants growing on the big farms along California's coastal roads in springtime. Every part of the plant has a magical, other worldly beauty; the long spiky leaves, the tightly closed green center leaves which form the edible globe, and the deep purple blossoms which bloom when the fruit is left unharvested. It is a food which may be enjoyed even without eating.

In my own neighborhood in San Francisco, I have discovered a beautiful artichoke garden nestled along the side of a private home; every year I enjoy observing the life cycle of these plants, one of which is in the photo above. In addition to being easy to grow and aesthetically delightful, artichokes are a gourmet springtime treat with excellent nutritional properties including generous amounts of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, fiber and protein. So, whether you know it as al kharsuf, alcarchofa, articiocco, artichaut or artichoke, now is the time to enjoy this ancient edible thistle.

Preparation: Steam well rinsed artichokes gently in a steamer basket over simmering water until tender. Artichoke is done when a leaf detaches easily when pulled. Serve with a simple dipping sauce of lemon juice, olive oil and salt. Chilled or room temperature artichokes are delicious, so remember to steam a few extras to store in the fridge for later use.

Beets are Beautiful!

2010-04-18T20:18:00.000-07:00

Beets are beautiful, especially these red and white striped heirloom Italian Chioggia beets which are named after a coastal fishing town south of Venice. Striped, golden, or red, beets are versatile, simple to prepare, nutritious and irresistibly sweet whether roasted, steamed, cooked in soup or sliced into salad.

If you purchase beets with green leaves still attached, carefully cut them from the root with a sharp knife. The greens are best used right away when they are at their freshest. Wash well, slice stems and leaves and steam briefly or saute in a little olive oil with some onion, leek or garlic. Beet greens are very flavorful and simple preparation is all they require.

Beet roots keep well in the fridge for 3 or 4 weeks; store in a loosely closed plastic bag. Steaming whole beets without cutting or peeling is quite simple. Place 3 or 4 medium sized well scrubbed beets in a pot and add enough water so that the beets are about 2/3 covered. Bring water to boil, lower heat, and allow to simmer gently until beets are tender when pierced, about 35- 45 minutes. Cooking time will vary depending on size.

Carefully transfer cooked beets to a large bowl and allow to cool enough to handle. Place a beet on a cutting board and slice in half. Put beet halves cut side down and remove skin which will slip off easily, then slice into half rounds. Store sliced beets in a clean glass jar in fridge; their sweetness will develop as they cool. To enjoy a warm beet salad right away, arrange slices in a bowl, sprinkle with a little olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and sea salt to taste; then enjoy the deep red beauty of beets!

For more beet recipes, see posts titled "Pacific Rim Beet Borscht" and "Butternut & Beet Saute".

Butternut & Beet Saute

2010-04-08T08:18:00.000-07:00

What to do with a steamed butternut squash and some freshly cooked beets? Saute a little leek, garlic and ginger root, add cubed squash and beets, toss with fresh herbs and lemon juice and eat!

This sweet, spicy, tangy and colorful combo is simple to prepare in two steps; cook the squash and beets ahead of time, set aside and do the sauteing just before serving. The proportions are flexible; you may use equal amounts of butternut and beets or alter the ratio as you desire.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, minced
3 cups steamed butternut squash, cubed
2 medium beets, steamed and cubed
1 handful Italian parsley or cilantro, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh oregano or marjoram
1/2 cup water
juice of 2 lemons
sea salt to taste

Saute leek, garlic and ginger in olive oil until fragrant. Add squash and toss gently on medium heat for a few minutes, adding a little more olive oil if needed, until squash is heated through. Add beets, parsley and oregano and continue to heat for another 2 or 3 minutes. If mixture is too dry, sprinkle with some water, which will allow vegetables to steam. Lower heat, add lemon juice and sea salt. Correct seasoning and serve immediately in warm bowls with a few lemon slices as garnish.

Note: See post titled "Kabocha, Japanese Winter Squash" for easy instructions on how to steam a whole squash.

Golden Cauliflower & Spicy Sabzi

2010-03-18T20:08:00.000-07:00

Golden cauliflower is as delicious as it is beautiful; when steamed and tossed with a bit of lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt there seems no reason to opt for a more complicated cooking method. But if you do wish to devote some additional time to preparation, this recipe for a Persian inspired dish will not disappoint.

Sabzi is the Farsi word which refers to greens or herbs which are eaten raw at the table or cooked in rice dishes and stews. Depending on regional and family tradition, sabzi may include any of the following fresh herbs: cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, scallions, dill, fenugreek and spinach. Before cooking the leaves are washed well and very finely chopped. Use a sharp vegetable knife and enjoy the fragrance as you work!

In this recipe the mild flavor of the cauliflower combines perfectly with the fresh brightness of the aromatic herbs which are sauteed in olive oil until just tender and still a vibrant green; chile peppers and garlic add depth and heat. The choice of which herbs to use and in what proportion is up to you, as is the quantity of hot chile and garlic you prefer. Dried red chile pepper flakes may be used instead of fresh.

1 medium head golden cauliflower, separated into flowerets
2 tablespoons olive oil (more as needed)
1 large bunch scallions, thinly sliced
3- 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 or more fresh hot chile peppers, minced
1 medium bunch cilantro, finely chopped (thick stems removed)
1 medium bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped (thick stems removed)
sea salt to taste
juice of 2 fresh lemons or limes

Steam cauliflower on medium heat until tender but not mushy (about 6 minutes).
While cauliflower is cooking, heat olive oil in a large heavy skillet; saute scallions, garlic and chile on a low flame for 2 or 3 minutes, adding more olive oil if needed.
Stir in cilantro and parsley; continue cooking gently until tender but still bright green.
Lower heat, add cauliflower, sea salt and lemon juice. Toss well, correct seasoning and serve in warm bowls. More lemon juice, chiles and olive oil may be added at the table.

California Caldo Verde

2010-03-08T20:18:00.000-08:00

Caldo Verde is a much loved traditional Portuguese peasant soup which can be made with any dark leafy green such as kale, collards or cabbage. This vegan interpretation requires only a few basic ingredients and can be assembled in minutes. California Caldo Verde is built on a simple leek and potato soup base to which finely sliced greens are added for the last few minutes of cooking. The result is a delightfully warming, satisfying and nutritious meal in a bowl. Even those who think they don't like kale cannot resist a bright green steaming hot bowl of Caldo Verde!

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup leek (or onion) thinly sliced
2- 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
5 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered
5 cups fresh water (plus extra as needed)
1 whole bay leaf
1 teaspoon sea salt (or more to taste)
about 6 kale or collard leaves, very thinly sliced into ribbons

In a heavy soup pot, heat olive oil and gently saute leek, garlic and celery until fragrant but not brown. Add potatoes, water, bay leaf and sea salt. Cover and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook on low heat about 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender, adding a little water if soup seems too thick.

While soup is cooking, stack kale or collard leaves on a clean cutting board. Roll leaves up into a tight cylinder and chiffonade by slicing very thinly crosswise into ribbons. Stir kale into soup and continue to cook briefly just until tender. Cooking time will vary depending on the type of greens and how thinly sliced they are; the beauty in Caldo Verde is its fresh green color, so be careful not to overcook. Taste and correct seasoning.

Serve immediately in warm soup bowls, garnished with a few lemon slices.

Red Russian Kale: Queen of Super Foods

2010-02-28T15:08:00.000-08:00

Red Russian kale, a beautiful ruffled leafy green and purple vegetable is worth eating simply for its aesthetic properties, but it also rates a place at the top of the list of nutrient dense super foods of the plant kingdom. A member of the brassica oleracea acephala family, Red Russian kale was likely introduced to North America in the 19th century by Russian traders, and is one of many kale varieties, some of which have been cultivated for over 2000 years. The eastern Mediterranean region and Asia Minor were the earliest centers of kale domestication.

All of the brassicas such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, bok choy, collards and cabbage are packed with crucial nutrients; beta carotene, vitamins C and K, calcium and iron are a few. The kale plant is hardy and disease resistant; it thrives in poor soil and cool weather and thus has been an important staple in ethnic cuisines for centuries, providing valuable health supportive compounds at very low cost. Fresh kale will keep well for several days in your fridge and takes only moments to prepare. Any of the leafy brassicas may be used interchangeably in recipes which call for collards, kale or cabbage.

Steaming is the cooking method which preserves the highest proportion of nutrients in kale. Of course raw kale, which makes an excellent addition to salads, retains the most nutrients of all. Kale may be stir fried or added to soups and vegetable stews; simply wash well and slice with a sharp knife. It's easy to stack a bunch of kale leaves, roll up into a cylinder, and shred crosswise as finely as you desire; the thinner the slices the more quickly they will cook. (If the central spine is very thick, remove and reserve for use in soup or stew). Steam kale gently until tender; toss with a little olive oil, fresh lemon juice and sea salt to taste.

Recipe for Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale Soup) to follow!

Rio Red Grapefruit: Citrus Paradisi

2010-02-18T08:18:00.000-08:00

Citrus Paradisi? Yes, "Citrus of Paradise" is the botanical name for grapefruit, and if you've ever tasted the Rio Red variety, you know that it really is a paradisaical fruit. With its pink blush exterior and deep ruby red, juicy sweet interior, this fruit bears little resemblance to the acidic white and pale pink varieties which once dominated the grapefruit market.

Rio Red season is just beginning, and citrus aficionados are already perusing local produce markets for the first fruits of this year's harvest. Good quality Rio Reds will be available for at least another few months; at the height of the season they will be plentiful and reasonably priced. Select fruits which seem heavy for their size, which indicates lots of juice. Rio Reds keep well and continue to sweeten after picking, so don't hesitate to buy in quantity.

Little preparation is needed to enjoy this fruit; simply cut up some room temperature Rio Reds and serve in a bowl. Fresh squeezed Rio Red juice is dangerously habit forming. If you have some Minneola tangerines on hand, squeeze one or two and a Rio Red for a superb citrus juice blend. Or cut up a couple of Rio Reds and toss with a spoonful of your favorite nut butter. This light quick meal will leave you feeling energetic, healthy, and a little bit closer to paradise.

Note: For those who must refrain from eating grapefruit because of interactions with prescription medications, don't overlook the excellent navel oranges, Minneola tangelos, Satsumas, Clementines and other seasonal citrus fruits which are now plentiful and delicious!

Spring Setsubun!

2010-02-01T05:05:00.000-08:00

Spring Setsubun marks the last day of winter according to the Japanese traditional calendar; it literally means "the turning" of the season. In my neighborhood in San Francisco, I can count on the local plum trees to indicate very accurately when spring is on the way; they are among the first plants to bloom at the end of January. Their period of blossoming is brief, and with frequent windy days at this time of year, it is pleasant to watch the plum blossoms flutter to the ground like pink snowflakes. Later this year I will gather and enjoy the intensely flavored small fruit.

Winter Fruit: Pink Lady Apples

2010-01-20T14:18:00.000-08:00

The irresistible Pink Lady apple is one of the high points of the winter produce season. Its fetching pink color and balanced tart- sweet juicy crispness makes it a perfect healthy snack for all occasions. My winter pantry always holds a basket of Pink Ladies which I replenish regularly during the winter months.

An Australian breeder, John Cripps, developed the Pink Lady in the early 1970's by crossing a Golden Delicious apple with a Lady Williams apple. By the late 1990's, growers in Washington and California had planted trees and began marketing the Pink Lady in the U.S. As the latest maturing of the commercial apple crops, it becomes available in October or November following the Granny Smith, Fuji, and Gala harvests.

My favorite Pink Lady apples are grown by the Cuyama Orchards, a 600 acre family run organic farm in California near Las Padres National Forest. Cuyama apples are a bit smaller, more deeply pigmented, and have a slightly more complex flavor than those of other growers. Several other California and Washington farms also produce excellent organic Pink Ladies. Select unbruised fruit and it will keep very well in a cool place for weeks.

Pink Ladies resist browning upon exposure to air; slice and wrap for snacks on the go. Kids may prefer to eat a slice or two of apple rather than an entire fruit; dip in some nut butter for serious hunger. Keep a few apples at your desk and a jar of nuts or seeds for a light meal at work; eat slowly and savor the beauty and flavor of one of nature's most delicious winter fast foods.

Fuul Mudammas: Middle Eastern Fava Beans

2010-01-12T17:28:00.000-08:00

I first tasted fuul in a tiny Tel Aviv hummus restaurant where I was served a plate of indescribably fresh hummus accompanied by a few tablespoons of delicious large brown fava beans known in Arabic as fuul. I haven't eaten hummus of that quality since and have never forgotten it or the fabulous fuul. So when I noticed a bin of dried favas at my natural food store recently, I scooped some up and brought them home to cook.

Fava beans are a staple in much of the middle east; most sources refer to fuul as the national dish of Egypt, where it is slowly cooked overnight and eaten for breakfast. A uniquely shaped pot called a fuul qidra was traditionally used for soaking and cooking the beans. Fuul is well loved in Israel, Lebanon, Syria and Iraq, and has a long history in Persian culture. Generations of Sephardic Jews have prepared a dish which includes whole eggs carefully nestled among the fuul; it is cooked overnight and eaten on the Sabbath. Some sources state that fava beans date from Pharonic times; one notes that fuul is mentioned in the Babylonian Talmud (circa 500 C.E.)

Fuul mudammas is made of cooked favas served with a variety of garnishes which are added at the table. Mudammas is usually translated to mean "buried" which most likely refers to the method of placing the fuul qidra in the embers of the cooking fire overnight. The beans are cooked in water without any other ingredients. Seasonings and garnishes are presented in small dishes for the diners to choose from; lemon wedges, olive oil, chopped onion, garlic cloves mashed with salt, chopped parsley, cilantro, or mint, pickled vegetables and fresh tahini sauce are some of the many traditional garnishes for fuul mudammas.

Fuul: Cooking method

2 cups dried fava beans soaked 8 hours & drained
6 cups fresh water

Place beans and water in a heavy pot. Cover and bring to a gentle boil; simmer until beans are very tender. Cooking time will vary depending on the beans; it may take up to 90 minutes. Some recipes advise removing the skins of the beans after the first 20 minutes or so of cooking, which involves letting them cool, peeling them, and then returning them to the pot to continue cooking. (I have found unpeeled favas delicious when thoroughly cooked, but be warned that purists may object!)

When beans are completely tender, remove from heat. Take a cup or two of beans and some liquid from the pot and mash in a bowl with a fork, then return to pot. Serve fuul in individual bowls, garnished with any combination of the following: Fresh lemon juice, olive oil, chopped parsley, garlic cloves mashed with sea salt. Fresh tahini sauce, made with sesame paste, lemon juice, garlic and salt is also a perfect addition to a plate of fuul.

January 2010: Winter Flowers & The Coming of the Light

2010-01-06T12:15:00.000-08:00

Winter flowers blooming near Fort Point, San Francisco. Less than six weeks until Lunar New Year/ Spring Festival, 14 February!

Daylight report: Currently, dawn occurs at 6:24 in Northern California, as it has every morning since the last full moon on 31 December. This is our latest dawn of the winter season. On January 15th, the date of the next new moon, dawn will break at 6:23; from that morning onward we will gain early morning light at the rate of about two minutes each week.

Spring Setsubun, the Japanese observance of the last day of winter, falls on February 3rd this year. It marks the end of "dai kan", the big cold. (See earlier post on Spring Setsubun for details about this festival). The increase in morning light accelerates with dawn breaking one minute earlier every day.

Lunar New Year/ Spring Festival fall on February 14th on the day of the new moon; dawn will break that morning at 6:03. The darkest days of winter will be behind us; Spring and the Year of the Tiger will begin.

Winter Solstice Brussels Sprouts

2009-12-21T05:00:00.000-08:00

The long dark evenings and cold weather of the winter solstice season call for flavorful warming food. Brussels sprouts are a staple in my kitchen at this time of year; always handy for a quick meal, they store well in the fridge, are simple to prepare, and are delicious when paired with aromatic vegetables such as sauteed ginger root and garlic. Select sprouts which are deep green, unblemished and compact. Smaller sprouts are preferred by European chefs; they cook quickly and are pleasing to the eye. Who can resist a spicy plate of "Choux de Bruxelles" on the darkest day of the year?

12 medium Brussels sprouts (roughly 2 cups) cut into halves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon red chile pepper flakes
1 tablespoon tamari sauce
2 tablespoons fresh water
lemon juice

Place Brussels sprouts cut side down in a steamer basket and steam gently for about 6 or 7 minutes until tender but still bright green. Test with a toothpick; don't over cook! Remove from steamer basket and set aside in a covered bowl.
In a heavy pan saute ginger root, garlic and chile flakes in olive oil over a medium flame until fragrant. Add Brussels sprouts to pan and toss briefly. Combine tamari and water and pour over vegetables, stirring as steam arises. Remove from heat and serve immediately, sprinkled with a little lemon juice, or arrange on a plate to offer to guests with a toothpick in each half. Cook a double batch and enjoy the next day as a snack garnished with a few drops of toasted hot sesame oil.

Fuyu? It's A Persimmon

2009-12-07T00:12:00.000-08:00

The Japanese Fuyu persimmon is gaining recognition among fruit lovers in the west as one of nature's finest winter treats. Now is the time to stock up on a supply of Fuyus; if handled properly you will enjoy them for the next six weeks or longer. When stored in a cool place (not in the fridge) Fuyus keep well and will continue to ripen and deepen in color, flavor, and sweetness. Select fruit which is unbruised and deep orange/red in color; the intense pigmentation indicates the presence of valuable essential nutrients.

Edible when firm or soft, the Fuyu contains very low levels of tannins and is never bitter or astringent. (Hachiyas are the high tannin persimmon; more about them in a future post). Although persimmon breads and puddings are popular in American kitchens, I prefer to eat persimmons uncooked in order to appreciate their subtle flavors and to derive maximum nutritional benefits.

There are no limits to Fuyu eating possibilities. Slice and serve sprinkled with a little lime juice; toss with pear slices and a few pomegranate seeds or other fruit, add to a leafy green salad, or blend with nut milk for a luxurious smoothie. Fuyus make convenient travel and snack food; take a few to work, school or on the plane to eat with a handful of almonds or walnuts. Some of nature's best fast food grows on trees and it's yours to enjoy this winter.

( See "Perfect Persimmon Smoothie" for an easy and delicious smoothie recipe; find more persimmon lore under "Persimmons, Food of the Gods").

Pacific Rim Beet Borscht

2009-11-23T13:39:00.000-08:00

This spicy colorful borscht is my Pacific Rim interpretation of the Eastern European dish which sustained my ancestors through long cold winters when fresh vegetables were scarce and root vegetables were an important source of nutrients. Thick with beets and cabbage, this borscht is more stew than soup; on chilly days it makes a warming meal in a bowl. The recipe calls for beets which have been cooked ahead of time. I usually cook some extra beets to use in salads and other recipes; they keep well in the fridge and make borscht preparation a simple task.

2/3 cup leek or onion, chopped
1 celery rib, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, chopped
2 medium beets, cooked and sliced
2 - 3 cups purple cabbage, thinly sliced
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, thinly sliced
1 - 2 dried red chile peppers, whole
1 bay leaf
4 cups fresh water

1 tablespoon white miso paste
1 tablespoon almond or peanut butter (smooth)
2 tablespoons mirin rice wine
1 tablespoon maple syrup
juice of 1 or 2 lemons
1 tablespoon rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Place vegetables, garlic, ginger root, chile pepper, bay leaf and water in a soup pot. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, covered, on low heat for about 20 minutes until vegetables are tender but not mushy. You may add a little water if needed during cooking. In a small bowl, combine miso, nut butter, and remaining ingredients, mixing well. Add to pot, heat for another minute or two and remove from flame. Taste and correct seasoning; the sweet sour balance should be to your liking. Serve in warm soup bowls, garnished with a little parsley or cilantro and a slice of lemon. Store remaining borscht in a glass jar in the fridge; it will improve in flavor and may be reheated or eaten chilled or at room temperature.

Dulse? It's a sea vegetable.

2009-11-11T11:48:00.000-08:00

Dulse is an edible sea vegetable which grows along the rocky coasts of the North Atlantic Ocean, from the United States, Canada, Iceland, the British Isles and beyond. Although westerners are unfamiliar with most sea vegetables, people all over the world have harvested them for centuries to use as food and medicine. Generations of California's north coast native inhabitants relied on local sea vegetables to supplement their diets. Ancient Chinese medical texts prescribe a variety of sea vegetables for use in traditional herbal formulas and Asian chefs have long featured sea vegetables in their cuisine.

Palmaria palmata, the botanical term for dulse, is from the Latin for "hand" because the plant is shaped like a human hand as it grows in the sea. A member of the red algae family, dulse is a beautiful deep purple- red color. Rich in minerals, vitamins, protein, and fiber, it is one of the most nutritious vegetables available for human consumption and can be a particularly valuable addition to vegan and raw food diets. Once harvested and dried, dulse has a long shelf life and is a versatile food which can be used in salads, soups, stews, and snacks.

Dulse requires no cooking; my favorite way to eat it is straight from the bag with a sliced pear or apple and a handful of almonds. If dulse is new to you, try small amounts first; for some this is an acquired taste not unlike certain highly flavored gourmet cheeses. Try toasting dulse briefly in an iron skillet till crisp; crumble into salads or other vegetable dishes, or pair with warm toasted walnuts for an amazingly delicious treat.

Note: Dulse is available in some natural food stores and online. Look for dulse which is deeply colored, pliable, and free of extraneous organic matter.

Winter Squash: Spicy Puree

2009-10-28T11:37:00.000-07:00

Any of the winter squash varieties now in season such as butternut, acorn, delicata, or Kabocha may be used for this simple, delicious, and nutrient rich recipe. If you don't have quite enough squash on hand, you may use cooked sweet potato; try a 50/50 mixture of each. You may steam the squash ahead of time, store it in the fridge for up to a few days and prepare the puree just before serving. For instructions on an easy way to steam a whole squash, see previous post: "Kabocha: Japanese Winter Squash." Oven roasted or baked squash work well for this recipe too. Kids love to make and eat this dish.

3 cups steamed winter squash
2/3 cup unflavored soy milk or nut milk
1 tablespoon white miso paste
1 tablespoon smooth unsalted nut butter (peanut or almond)
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon of each: powdered ginger root, powdered cinnamon, powdered chile powder
grated rind of one medium tangerine or orange
juice of 1/2 medium tangerine or orange
fresh grated nutmeg

In a large bowl, mash squash with soy milk. Add miso paste and nut butter; incorporate well into mixture. Stir in remaining ingredients until smooth, adding a bit more soy milk or tangerine juice as needed; the consistency is up to you. Taste and correct seasoning. Reheat gently or serve or at room temperature, garnished with a little freshly grated nutmeg.

Kabocha: Japanese Winter Squash

2009-10-16T08:25:00.000-07:00

Kabocha Japanese winter squash arrives in produce markets in autumn along with the more familiar orange pumpkins, butternut, and acorn squash. In Japan, Kabocha is the generic term for any pumpkin or squash; in North America it refers to a specific winter squash which has a thick dark green skin streaked with celadon markings and usually weighs about two or three pounds, though larger specimens are not unusual. The deep orange highly nutritious flesh is much beloved by aficionados for its complex, sweet chestnut flavor and creamy texture.

Evidence of squash cultivation dates back over four thousand years to Mesoamerica; recently anthropologists have found domesticated squash seeds in Peru which are ten thousand years old, making squash one of the earliest foods grown by humans. It is thought by historians that Kabocha (curcubita maxima) was introduced to Japan by Portuguese sailors in the 16th century. Kabocha requires a growing season of at least 100 days; in the U.S. it is cultivated in California, Florida, and the southwest. Most of the California crop is exported to Japan where it is a popular staple featured in soups, stews, tempura, and desserts.

After harvesting, Kabocha improves in flavor and sweetness as its natural sugars continue to develop. Stored in a cool place (not the fridge) it will keep well for six weeks or longer. Choose squash which has a hard shell free of soft spots and is heavy for its size. Kabocha may be used in any dish which calls for pumpkin or winter squash. If you're fond of butternut and acorn squash, Kabocha will be a seasonal favorite in your kitchen. See basic cooking method below.

Cooking Kabocha:

Cutting up winter squash with a thick tough shell takes strength and caution. I've found that it's much easier to simply bake or steam the squash whole. After cooking, it takes no effort to cut it up and remove the seeds. Here's the easy steaming method:

Scrub squash well. Choose a pot with a tight fitting lid and place a metal steamer basket inside. Add enough water to almost reach the steamer basket, put squash in basket and cover. Bring water to a boil. Lower heat and steam gently until tender; test with a toothpick. Cooking time will vary, but about 30 minutes should be enough for a 2- 3 pound squash.

Turn off heat and allow squash to cool enough to handle. Place on cutting board, slice off the top of the squash and remove seeds and fibers. If organic, there's no need to remove the skin. Traditional Japanese cooks like to remove most of the skin but leave some strips on for aesthetic appeal. Slice squash and serve with a little tamari sauce and your favorite steamed leafy greens. Cooked squash keeps well in the fridge and makes great portable snacks for school or work. A recipe for winter squash soup will be posted at a later date.

French Sugar Plums for an Autumn Festival

2009-09-30T11:37:00.000-07:00

French Sugar Plums arrive in the produce markets just in time for the joyful autumn festival of Sukkot, the ancient Jewish harvest holiday which is observed by building and living in small temporary outdoor dwellings. The "sukkah" or booth, is decorated with seasonal fruits, and is required to have a roof made of organic materials such as palm fronds which allow one to glimpse the stars while dining and sleeping in the sukkah for the seven days of the holiday.

These small dusky blue plums are intensely sweet and make excellent eating out of hand. They travel well for snacks on the go, and are a favorite of tart bakers and jam makers for their flavor and dense texture. Select fruit which is unbruised and it will keep well if stored in a cool place in your pantry. A handful of fresh sugar plums is a perfect dessert for dinner in the sukkah, to be enjoyed as the autumn moonlight filters through its leafy roof.

Note: Sukkot is thought by historians to have been the model for the American Thanksgiving first celebrated by the Pilgrims.

Autumnal Poached Pears

2009-09-22T13:27:00.000-07:00

The arrival of autumn is accompanied by a plethora of many varieties of fresh ripe pears in produce markets and on backyard trees. If you're overwhelmed by the generosity of friends who leave bags of pears on your doorstep, this recipe is for you.

According to Traditional Eastern Medicine, pears are associated with the autumn season; they benefit the Lung energy, moisturize the tissues, and cool excess heat in the body. Pears are often prescribed by eastern medicine practitioners for those recovering from upper respiratory illnesses.

For poaching, choose pears which are ripe but not too soft. Certain pear varieties may work better than others, but I usually use whatever fruit I happen to have on hand. Gentle heating and a few spices are all that is needed to bring out the pear's subtle perfumey flavor. I don't bother to peel organic pears, but you may do so if you wish. Be sure to cut the fruit on a very clean board which is not used for garlic, onions, or other incompatibly flavored foods.

6 pears, washed, cored, and sliced into eighths
2-3 tablespoons dried blueberries, currents, or raisins
2 +1/2 cups organic apple cider or fresh water
1 pinch sea salt
2 cinnamon sticks
2 thick slices fresh ginger root
2 tablespoons mirin rice wine (optional)
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Arrange pears and dried fruit in a wide bottomed pot and add liquid. The fruit should be about half covered by liquid; add a bit more if needed. Stir in remaining ingredients except lemon juice, cover pot, and bring to a gentle simmer. Continue cooking on low heat for about 5 minutes, then remove from flame and let stand for another 20- 30 minutes, which allows the pears to finish cooking and the flavors to develop. Stir in lemon juice; taste and adjust seasoning. Remove cinnamon and ginger. Store poached pears with liquid in very clean glass jars; they will keep well in the fridge for more than a week. Serve as a simple dessert or snack garnished with a few toasted almonds. In cool weather, gently reheat with a little soy milk and serve in a warm bowl with a drizzle of maple syrup and a dash of cinnamon powder.

Classic Tomato Basil Salad

2009-09-09T19:47:00.000-07:00

I still recall the taste of my first tomato basil salad, made with a fresh picked, sun warmed New Jersey tomato and aromatic basil from the same garden patch. There is no better way to enjoy a fully ripe perfect tomato, ideally eaten in a shady spot in a lush green back yard. Add high humidity and the trilling of hundreds of locusts, and you have the quintessential late summer tomato moment.

Preparation couldn't be simpler: Slice one large very ripe sun warmed (or at least room temperature) tomato and arrange on a plate. Chiffonade five or six fresh basil leaves and sprinkle them over tomato slices. Drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil, a little rice wine vinegar, and a pinch of sea salt. The intermittent rumble of distant thunder goes well with this too.

Heirloom Tomato

2009-09-09T19:43:00.000-07:00

Pluot? Plum x Apricot =

2009-08-31T18:19:00.000-07:00

Although pluots have been available commercially since the early 199o's, they remain a little known oddity to many Americans. Developed in 1989 by Floyd Zaiger, a brilliant world renowned California fruit breeder, pluots are an "interspecific" hybrid, a cross between a plum and an apricot. Zaiger employs a painstaking laborious hand pollination technique in his plant breeding; no genetic modification is used. There are over twenty five pluot varieties which range in color from deep purple to yellow or pale green; most of them are smooth skinned and resemble plums.

What's most important about the pluot is its outstanding flavor. Very sweet, dense, complex, and juicy, once you've had a taste you'll be back for more. Pluot season begins in early summer and continues until fall; pluots are among the last of the stone fruits still available at summer's end. Look for them in farmer's markets, small produce markets and natural food stores. Select fruit which is not too firm and slightly fragrant; it will continue to ripen at home. If you discover very ripe pluots, don't pass them by; they make the best eating of all. Take a bite and say thank you to Floyd Zaiger!

Burmese Style Purple Cabbage Salad

2009-08-18T12:34:00.000-07:00

To make this healthy, crunchy, spicy salad, sharpen up your vegetable knife and get ready for some serious shredding. Although specific quantities are furnished here, this is a flexible recipe, so don't worry about exact measurements. With its purple, red and green elements, this salad will beautify your table; share with friends and you'll receive enthusiastic reviews and invitations to pot luck parties!

1 medium head purple cabbage, thinly shredded
1 teaspoon sea salt
juice of 3 or more limes or lemons
1- 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons maple syrup

2/3 cup unsalted roasted peanuts
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh ginger root, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

a few drops toasted hot sesame oil, to taste
1 handful fresh basil leaves, cut into pieces with scissors
1 sweet red pepper, thinly sliced
several whole basil sprigs for garnish

Toss shredded cabbage in a large bowl with sea salt, lime juice, vinegar and maple syrup and set aside. (This step may be done several hours ahead of serving. Keep in fridge until ready to serve).

Toast peanuts in a heavy iron skillet until fragrant; set aside to cool in a ceramic bowl or plate.
Toast sesame seeds in skillet until fragrant; set aside to cool in a ceramic bowl or plate.
Heat olive oil in skillet and saute ginger root until golden, adding more olive oil if needed; place on paper towel to cool.
Saute garlic in olive oil until golden, adding more olive oil if needed; place on paper towel to cool.

To assemble, toss cabbage mixture, add basil leaves and drizzle with a few drops of hot sesame oil. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more sea salt, lime juice, or maple syrup if desired. Place cabbage mixture on a platter or in a wide glass bowl. Arrange red pepper slices in a mound in the center of cabbage.

Combine peanuts, sesame seeds, ginger, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a bowl and toss well. Spoon mixture in a ring around the sweet red pepper. Arrange basil sprigs in a circle around the edges of the salad.

To serve, place cabbage mixture on individual salad plates; add a spoonful of red pepper and toasted ingredients to each serving. Garnish with a few basil leaves and lime wedges.

Health Care: What the Yellow Emperor Said

2009-08-12T11:56:00.000-07:00

"This is the reason why the sages do not wait for illnesses to appear, but take care of them before they appear..."

"To wait for the illness to develop before remedying it, for the disorder to form before taking care of it, is to wait until one is thirsty before digging the well, to wait for battle before forging the weapons. Is this not too late?"

"The Way! The sages practice it; fools admire it."

--The Yellow Emperor's Classic on Medicine (circa 2nd century BCE)

Peach Salad With Fresh Lemon Verbena Leaves

2009-08-07T13:59:00.000-07:00

During August, the peak of peach season in Northern California, little rows of fruit in varying stages of ripeness are lined up on my kitchen counters. Each day I select the ripest for immediate use. Recently I happened to have on hand a ripe honeydew melon and some fresh picked lemon verbena leaves and decided to combine them in a salad. (Fresh mint or basil may be used instead). The fragrant leaves lend an unexpected elegance to a very simple preparation.

4 ripe peaches, washed and sliced into bite sized pieces
1/2 ripe honeydew melon, sliced into bite sized pieces
1 handful fresh lemon verbena leaves, separated from stems

Place sliced fruit in a medium sized bowl. Lightly crush the aromatic leaves in your hands, cut into strips with a scissors and add to salad, tossing briefly. Serve in small glass bowls garnished with a sprig of lemon verbena. Try serving with a little fresh lemon or lime juice and a pinch of sea salt; a dusting of hot red chile powder is also delicious!

Note: Lemon Verbena (aloysia triphylla) is a woody shrub native to South America. Its slender elongated leaves have a distinctive lemon- citrus flavor. It grows in many California gardens; you may have a neighbor who will share some cuttings with you. For a delightful tea, pour boiling water over a few leaves and steep for 3- 5 minutes.

Peaches: A Portrait

2009-07-31T17:45:00.001-07:00

Anasazi Beans: Spicy & Simple

2009-07-27T16:44:00.000-07:00

This method is appropriate for preparing any heirloom or conventional dried beans. Pre- soaking the beans for at least 6 hours will decrease cooking time. I usually put beans in to soak in the early morning; rinse beans and check for small stones before soaking. Store cooked beans in clean glass jars in the fridge; they will keep for several days and can be used to create delicious simple meals in minutes. (This is the real reason for cooking beans ahead of time).

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek, thinly sliced
1- 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 carrot, sliced
2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
1 bay whole leaf
1-2 dried red chile peppers
2 cups anasazi beans, pre-soaked & drained
5-6 cups fresh water
1 tablespoon mirin rice wine (optional)
1 tablespoon white miso paste
1 teaspoon maple syrup
1/4 teaspoon chile powder (more to taste)
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano

In a heavy bottomed pot, heat olive oil and saute leek, celery, carrot and cilantro until fragrant. Add bay leaf, chile pepper, beans and water. Cover and bring to a gentle simmer, cooking on a low flame until beans are tender, about 45 -50 minutes. If needed, add a little more water to pot.

When beans are tender place mirin, miso paste, honey and spices in a small bowl with some cooking liquid from beans; mix well and add to pot. Turn off heat and allow beans to rest for 5 or 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve in pre- heated soup bowls garnished with chopped ripe tomato and cilantro or parsley. A little fresh squeezed lemon or lime juice adds a new dimension to cooked beans.

Anasazi Beans: Ancient American Heirloom

2009-07-24T10:19:00.000-07:00

Anasazi beans are among the scores of heirloom legume varieties which are indigenous to the Americas and have been cultivated for thousands of years, but remain unfamiliar to many Americans. Members of the group of common beans phaseolus vulgaris, each variety has its own distinctive coloration which can range from tan to purple, gray, blue, pink and ivory; many are speckled with dark or light spots.

Some disagreement surrounds the proper translation of the word "Anasazi" which refers to the native people who have inhabited the four corners region of the American southwest for many generations; several sources translate it as "the ancient ones". However there is no disagreement about the beauty, exceptional flavor, and high quality nutrition of these beans.

Although dried beans keep well and have a long shelf life, it is best to use them within a year or two of harvesting, as older beans are slower to cook. Heirloom varieties are available in some small produce markets and natural food stores, as well as online; you may also find them at farm stands along the coast south of San Francisco.

If you've never ventured beyond the red and white beans commonly sold in the supermarket, you will be surprised by the depth and range of the subtle flavors of heirloom beans. Their fabulous colors do fade with cooking, but I always keep an extra glass jar of these small red and white gems on a shelf in my pantry to admire and to remind me of this gift from the ancient Anasazi.

Peaches: Fruit Philosophy

2009-07-15T14:34:00.000-07:00

Peaches and other summer fruits are among the great joys of the season. But selecting flavorful fruit can be a frustrating experience for the unskilled shopper. Fresh seasonal fruit traditionally was consumed close to its source. Perishable ripe produce does not travel well, has minimal shelf life, and thus is not compatible with the marketing strategies of commercial supermarkets. True fruit aficionados must look elsewhere for quality fruit.

Searching for delicious fruit is a fun but serious adventure. Small produce markets, farmer's markets, and fruit stands are the best places to go fruit hunting. Get acquainted with the people who work in the market; they'll know which is the best fruit or when the next shipment is due. If you're a regular customer, you may be offered samples and background information about special items. Friends and neighbors who have fruit trees may be happy to share their abundant harvests.

Don't pass up fruit which is a bit small or very ripe; it is often the best and most reasonably priced. Much good quality fruit is rejected by big commercial markets for cosmetic reasons; it may be misshapen, too small, or slightly blemished. Small independent markets often purchase this fruit at bargain prices. If you're unsure about an item, buy a few pieces and plan to return for more if it's good.

Fruit shopping requires patience, flexibility, and a philosophical attitude. As a product of nature, fruit quality can be inconsistent and unpredictable and may range from the mediocre to the sublime. Be prepared to turn your less than fabulous fruit and almost too ripe fruit into salad or smoothies. Toss cut up fruit with lime juice and a few crushed mint or basil leaves. Eat slowly and imagine the perfect peach which is still out there waiting to be discovered on your next expedition.

Summer Fruit Advisory: Eat It Now!

2009-07-03T16:10:00.000-07:00

Minestrone: La Cucina Povera

2009-06-26T09:47:00.000-07:00

Much colorful mythology surrounds the origins of minestrone, but there is no doubt that it is deeply rooted in the venerable Italian tradition of la cucina povera- the kitchen of poverty, or "peasant" cooking. Roughly translated, minestrone means "the big soup", one which contains a wide variety of ingredients. Many a home cook with a penchant for simple vegetable based cuisine has created her own unique versions over a lifetime.

Minestrone is made year round; its varying ingredients reflect the season, the ingredients on hand, and the mood of the cook. My recipe is built on a foundation of fresh seasonal vegetables, beans which I've recently cooked and stored in the fridge, and whatever pasta is in the pantry. This summer style minestrone takes 45 minutes from start to finish. A delicious and satisfying meal in a bowl, it is cucina povera at its finest.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, diced
1 celery rib, sliced
1 medium carrot, sliced
1 medium zucchini, sliced
1 cup cilantro or parsley leaves, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 or 2 dried red chile peppers
2 Yukon Gold potatoes (1+1/2 cups) cubed
2 fresh ripe tomatoes (1 cup) chopped
1 whole dried shiitake mushroom (optional)
5 cups fresh water
1 tablespoon mirin rice wine (optional)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup cooked beans (white, black, or kidney)
1 cup pasta (small shells are my favorite)
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano (or a few sprigs fresh if available)
1/4 teaspoon dried basil (or 3 or 4 fresh leaves if available)
1 tablespoon light miso paste
1-2 cups leafy greens, chopped (spinach, arugula, chard, other)

In a heavy bottomed soup pot saute the leek, garlic, celery and carrot until fragrant. Continue to saute on a medium flame, adding zucchini, cilantro, bay leaf and chile pepper. Stir for another minute or two, adding a little more olive oil if necessary. Add potatoes, tomatoes, mushroom and water and bring to a gentle simmer, then stir in mirin, tomato paste, beans, pasta, and herbs. Cover pot and simmer on a low flame for about 10 minutes, stirring a few times, until potatoes are tender and the pasta is just al dente. Remove mushroom, slice thinly and return to pot. Dissolve miso in a small bowl with some of the soup liquid and add to pot. Place greens in soup, stir briefly, cover, and allow to sit for about ten minutes on very low flame until greens are lightly cooked. Taste, adjust seasoning, and serve immediately in warm soup bowls.

Summer: The Season of Abundance

2009-06-07T16:01:00.000-07:00

Although summer does not arrive officially until the third week of June, the days preceding the solstice are filled with abundant light and increasing warmth. The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Medicine, which was compiled almost 300 years before the common era, describes the summer season and its energy in detail, with specific instructions as to how one may remain healthy through the season and into the autumn.

"In the months of Summer there is an abundance of sunshine and rain. The Heavenly energy descends, and the Earthly energy rises. When these energies merge, there is an intimate connection between Heaven and Earth. As a result, plants mature and animals, flowers and fruit appear abundantly..."

"One may retire somewhat later at this time of year, while still arising early. One should refrain from anger and stay physically active, to keep the skin breathing and to prevent the qi from stagnating. One can indulge a bit more than in other seasons, but should not overindulge..."

"Emotionally, it is important to be happy and easygoing and not hold grudges, so that the energy can flow freely and communicate between the external and the internal. In this way, illness may be averted... Problems in the Summer will cause injury to the Heart and will manifest in the Fall."

---The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Medicine
(circa 2nd century BCE)

Nutrition & Energy

2009-06-01T12:01:00.000-07:00

"Lisa: Your advice on nutrition was extremely helpful in terms of increasing the energy I needed to get through the last leg of grad school. I admire the way you give advice as it does not feel as though you are pointing the 'you should do it like this' finger."

-- D.G.

"Lisa, you know I just come here so I can have a turkey sandwich at the market afterward."

--Anon.

Garden State Salad Dressing (Oh New Jersey!)

2009-05-28T10:31:00.000-07:00

As a native of the Garden State (home of the best tomatoes in the western world) one of the first things I learned to make in the kitchen was salad dressing. Making your own is one of the easiest kitchen tasks imaginable; home made is fresher tasting, more flavorful and far healthier than anything from a bottle.

When I began mixing up my first salad dressings, no one had ever heard of balsamic vinegar, raspberry- infused vinegars or extra virgin olive oil; red wine vinegar and olive oil were what we knew and always kept on hand. You may use apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar or rice vinegar if you prefer. Dried herbs work well in this recipe, as long as they haven't been on your shelf for too long. If you have fresh oregano or marjoram, crush the leaves a bit before adding them to the dressing.

Oil and vinegar recipes usually call for a ratio of 3 parts oil to one part vinegar; in this recipe the proportions are reversed because I just don't like that much oil on my salad. You may adjust the oil - vinegar ratio to your preference. After making this recipe a few times, you'll learn to portion out the oil and vinegar without a measuring spoon. Here's all that's needed to make a delicious simple oil and vinegar dressing:

a glass jar which holds about 1+1/2 cups, with tight fitting lid
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed or chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 or 3 pinches dried oregano or marjoram
1 or 2 pinches sea salt

Place all ingredients in jar, close tightly and shake vigorously. Dip a piece of whatever leafy green is handy into the dressing; taste and adjust seasoning. If the dressing is too sharp, add a tablespoon of water.

Serve on your favorite leafy green salad, sliced ripe tomatoes, or on steamed vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, green beans, or Yukon Gold potatoes. Dressing will keep in the fridge for several days; shake well before serving.

Cherries!

2009-05-18T19:05:00.000-07:00

When fresh cherries arrive in the produce markets in late spring, fruit lovers celebrate. Cherries signal the beginning of the summer produce season; soon to follow are apricots, plums, peaches, nectarines, melons, berries and grapes. Months of great fruit eating are ahead, but first, there are cherries to enjoy.

Cherries are among the oldest cultivated fruits; their domestication dates back to circa 300 BCE. It is thought that the first region where cherry trees were grown was Anatolia, or Asia Minor (where Turkey is today). Although there are hundreds of cherry varieties, only a handful are produced on a large enough scale to be sold commercially. The many varieties belong to two categories; "sweet cherries" are cultivated for eating fresh, and "sour cherries" are cultivated for baking and preserving. Brooks, Bing, Linden, and Ranier are a few of the varieties which you may discover in produce markets.

When shopping for cherries, chose fruit that is deeply colored, shiny and smooth skinned. Recently cherries have been referred to as a "super food" because they contain a wide range of valuable nutrients. If you find good quality cherries in the market, buy as many as you can carry home; the cherry season is short and this is a fruit which should be enjoyed in quantity! Cherries store best in the fridge; wash them thoroughly before eating.

Pacific Rim Corn Chowder

2009-05-04T13:57:00.000-07:00

For nearly two decades, San Francisco's premier Buddhist vegetarian restaurant was the destination of choice for aficionados of this traditional sub-specialty of Asian cuisine. Although Veggie Food Restaurant is no more, the memory of countless flavorful healthy meals lives on. This corn chowder is my interpretation of one of the many stellar dishes which were humbly offered day after day in this unassuming peaceful restaurant in San Francisco's Richmond District, on the foggy edge of the Pacific Rim.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons ginger root, chopped
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
1 carrot, sliced into 1/2 moons
3 or 4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked, drained, & sliced
4 or 5 small Yukon Gold or other thin skinned potatoes, quartered
1 or 2 dried red chile peppers
1 whole bay leaf
4- 5 cups fresh water
2 cups sweet corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1+1/2 tablespoons white miso paste
1 cup plain unflavored soy milk
2 tablespoons cilantro or parsely, chopped

Place dried shiitakes in a bowl of fresh water and soak for about 20 minutes while preparing vegetables. In a heavy bottomed soup pot, heat olive oil and saute leek, garlic, ginger root, celery, and carrot until fragrant but not brown. Squeeze excess water out of shiitakes, slice into strips, and add to pot with chile pepper and bay leaf. Stir and continue to saute briefly, adding a little more olive oil if necessary. Add 4 cups of water and 1+1/2 cups corn to pot, cover, and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes; soup is done when the potatoes are somewhat tender but not mushy.

Place miso paste, soy milk, and remainder of corn kernels in the blender and process until fairly smooth. Add blended mixture to soup, and heat through without boiling. Taste and correct seasoning. If the soup is thicker than you wish, add a little water or soy milk. The flavor of this soup improves if it is allowed to sit for a few minutes before serving.

I like to add a handful of green peas, or a small thinly sliced zucchini to the soup near the end of cooking. Serve in warm soup bowls, garnished with a little cilantro or parsley.

Note: Traditional Buddhist cuisine eschews the use of garlic, onion, and certain other aromatic vegetables which are deemed too stimulating for those dedicated to a life of meditation practice.
This soup is very flavorful even without the leek and garlic which I have chosen to add to the recipe.

Wild Watercress & Potato Salad

2009-04-20T12:56:00.000-07:00

On a recent unseasonably warm spring morning in the City by the Bay, I made a quick stop at the neighborhood ATM, then headed to my local watercress patch to gather greens for dinner. The fact that the ATM and the watercress exist only minutes from each other gives me particular pleasure, as does the act of foraging for wild food in a hidden green oasis in the middle of this high-tech city.

Watercress (nasturtium officinale) is a highly nutritious semi- aquatic plant which was one of the earliest leafy greens eaten by humans. It grows prolifically in the wild in fresh water streams and is now cultivated for commercial use. Watercress has recently gained a reputation as a "super food" high in anti- oxidants and a wide range of vitamins and minerals. If you gather your own watercress, make sure to wash it very thoroughly before eating.

In hot weather, this salad makes a healthy light meal which can be prepared ahead of time in the cool hours of the day. If there's no watercress available, arugula will work just as well. Steam a pot of small Yukon Gold or other thin skinned potatoes and set aside to cool until you're ready to assemble the salad, which takes only a few minutes. This recipe makes about 2 servings, depending on the size of the potatoes.

5 or 6 small Yukon Gold potatoes, steamed, peeled, & quartered
1 medium bunch fresh watercress or arugula, roughly chopped
1 0r 2 tablespoons leek or green onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 2 or more lemons or limes
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and toss lightly. Taste and correct seasoning, adding more lemon/ lime juice or sea salt if needed. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Spring: The Season of Revitalization

2009-03-30T15:30:00.000-07:00

No matter what the status of human affairs, the seasons continue their timeless unfolding year after year. No newspaper headline need announce that spring is here; the blue jays, ravens, and mocking birds are flying past the flowering lemon tree in the yard with twigs in their beaks. The great technological advances of modern civilization have not changed what nature insists upon, and what the wild things instinctively understand. Here are a few reminders from the ancient Chinese Medical text, the Nei Jing, on how humans may best live in harmony with the season:

"The months of the Spring Season bring about the revitalization of all things in nature. It is the time of birth. This is when Heaven and Earth are reborn. In Spring it is desirable to go to sleep early at night, get up early in the morning, take a walk in the garden, to loosen up the hair, and relax the body. To act contrary will cause injury of the Liver...

Since this is the season in which the Universal Energy begins anew and rejuvenates, one should attempt to correspond to it directly by being open and unsuppressed, both physically and emotionally. On the physical level it is good to exercise more frequently and wear loose fitting clothing. This is the time to do exercises to loosen the tendons and muscles.

Emotionally, it is good to develop equanimity. This is because Spring is the season of the Liver, and indulgence in anger, frustration, depression, sadness, or excess emotion can upset the Liver...."

--- The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Medicine
(circa 2nd century BCE)

Citrus & Nut Butter Salad

2009-03-12T19:46:00.000-07:00

The freshest fruit available right now in produce markets is citrus; minneola tangelos, navel oranges, and Rio Star ruby red grapefruits are plentiful, affordable, and delicious. I often make this salad when I want a light but energizing meal. All that's involved is slicing the fruit and tossing it with your favorite nut butter. You may adjust the ratio of fruit to nut butter to your liking. Use a sharp knife and a clean cutting board.

2 Rio Star ruby red grapefruits (or other citrus)
1 tablespoon organic peanut or almond butter
honey to taste (optional)

Place a washed grapefruit on the cutting board and slice in half across its "equator". Cut a small slice off the "north" and "south" poles of each half. Place a half grapefruit on the cutting board, wide side down, and carefully trim off the peel. Slice fruit into bite- sized pieces and transfer it to a bowl along with any juice which is left on the cutting board. When all the fruit is cut, add a tablespoon of nut butter to the bowl and toss lightly. Drizzle a little honey over the salad and eat!

Note: If you think you don't like grapefruit, you've never tasted a Rio Star ruby red. The flesh of the Rio Star is deep red, sweet, and juicy, without a hint of bitterness. Researchers in Israel found that consumption of one red grapefruit a day significantly lowered cholesterol levels in research subjects.

Japanese Sweet Potato / Satsuma- Imo

2009-03-04T16:55:00.000-08:00

My introduction to the Japanese sweet potato (satsuma- imo) occurred accidentally, when I brought home a bag of dusty pinkish skinned sweet potatoes from the market. After scrubbing and simmering the tubers until tender, I cut one open and was startled to discover that its flesh was a pale yellow-ivory color, when I was expecting a bright orange interior. If the color was a surprise, its flavor was even more of a revelation. Less sweet than a standard sweet potato, the Japanese tuber is slightly firmer and dryer, and has a subtle delicious chestnut flavor. Since that fortuitous discovery, the Japanese sweet potato has become a staple in my pantry and the basis for many quick nutritious meals and snacks.

To prepare, scrub sweet potatoes in warm water, rinse, and place in one layer in a soup pot. Add enough fresh water to almost cover the potatoes. Place lid on pot and bring to a boil; lower heat and simmer gently until tender but not mushy, which may take about 45 minutes depending on the size of the potatoes. When done, remove from pot and cool a bit before serving (or sampling!) to allow the natural sugars in the potatoes to develop. Cooked sweet potatoes store well for up to a week in the fridge and make great portable instant snacks.

There are infinite ways to serve Japanese sweet potatoes, but their natural deliciousness requires little additional preparation. For a quick meal, steam or stir fry your favorite leafy greens. Slice a few cooked potatoes into rounds or chunks ( the skins will come off as you cut them) and serve on a bed of warm greens; season with a little tamari sauce to taste.

Wakame Sesame Salad / Goma Wakame

2009-02-18T13:28:00.000-08:00

Sea vegetables have become familiar to many Americans over the last few decades, thanks to the increased availability and popularity of Asian foods. Wakame salad with sesame seeds ("goma wakame") is not a fast food recipe, but it's fun to make and enthusiastically appreciated by those to whom it is offered. (Hint: make a lot). Although this recipe calls for 1-1/2 ounces of dried wakame, I usually just measure it roughly by the handful; the exact amount isn't important.

1-1/2 ounces dried wakame sea vegetable (about 3 handfuls)
2 sweet red peppers, sliced into thin strips
2 or 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh ginger root, sliced very fine
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/3 cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon tamari sauce
1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 small red hot chile peppers, sliced into fine strips (optional)
4 tablespoons freshly toasted sesame seeds

Rinse the wakame in cool water and place in a stainless steel bowl. Cover with fresh water and allow to rehydrate for about 5 minutes. Drain wakame and squeeze out excess water with your hands. Slice wakame on a clean wooden cutting board into very thin strips with a sharpened vegetable knife. (The thick central stems of the wakame can be reserved for later use in vegetable soup or stew). Place wakame, sweet pepper slices, and chopped cilantro in a bowl.

In a separate bowl, combine all remaining ingredients except the sesame seeds. Pour dressing over the wakame mixture and toss well. Taste and adjust seasoning. The salad will keep well for a day or so in the fridge. Just before serving, sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. (See previous post for toasted sesame seed recipe).

Note: If you don't have sweet red peppers, try using cucumbers or carrots, thinly sliced, instead.

Plum Blossom Haiku: Basho

2009-02-10T09:37:00.000-08:00

"In the plum blossom scent
the sun springs out
a mountain path."

"ume ga ka ni notto hi no deru yamaji kana"

Basho (1644- 1694) Edo Period, Japan

Okayu: Japanese Rice Porridge

2009-02-05T12:31:00.000-08:00

Okayu is a traditional rice porridge eaten in Japan by babies, old people, sick people, and almost everyone else. Every Asian culture makes its own version of rice porridge which is simply rice cooked in water until very soft and served with an infinite variety of garnishes. Okayu is usually the first solid food given to infants and is often served for breakfast or a late night meal; it's the favored food of those suffering from colds and flus or other illnesses. This is comfort food at its best! Use any good quality white rice. Makes about two servings.

1/2 cup white rice, rinsed and drained
3 cups fresh water
1- 2 pinches sea salt

Place ingredients in a heavy bottomed soup pot, cover, and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer on a low flame for at least 30 minutes. (You may vary the proportion of rice and water to attain the thickness you prefer).

Garnishes: During cold and flu season, serve steaming hot okayu with thin slices of fresh ginger root and green onions. Sprinkle with some toasted sesame seeds if available. It's traditional to add one umeboshi plum to each bowl. (Umeboshi are sour-salty pickled plums available in Japantown and natural food stores).

Spring Setsubun: Winter's End

2009-01-30T15:55:00.000-08:00

Spring setsubun is the traditional Japanese observance of the last day of winter and the coming of spring. Setsubun means "division of season". While each of the four seasons has its setsubun, the spring setsubun, "setsubun risshun", is the the only one which is a major celebration because it marks the arrival of the lunar new year.

Setsubun risshun is a time for cleaning the house, eating special foods, and the symbolic purification of the home by the ceremony of "mame- maki", or bean throwing. The head of each household stands in the doorway and casts roasted soybeans ("iri mame") onto the ground to drive out demons and bring good luck. The participants chant " Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" "Demons out! Good fortune in!" It is also traditional to eat one roasted soybean for each year of one's life, then adding one more to symbolize long life.

Although most North Americans do not consider early February the beginning of spring, in Northern California there are many signs that winter is over. The days are quickly gaining more daylight, the air is milder, and if one looks carefully in certain neighborhoods of San Francisco, the magnolia and plum trees are already blooming. The season has divided yet again. Winter is over. Time to count and savor your roasted soybeans. Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!

Winter White Beans

2009-01-28T15:40:00.000-08:00

Although white beans and other legumes make excellent year round eating, I especially appreciate the rich creamy quality of white beans during the cooler months. I'm not sure why people believe that cooking beans from scratch is difficult; there are few foods which are simpler to prepare. But be warned that once you've tasted home cooked beans, those canned ones will never appeal to you again.

This recipe for winter white beans can be made with cannellini, navy, or lima beans. Soak beans overnight or for at least 6 hours; this reduces cooking time. I often start to soak beans in the morning so that by late afternoon they're ready to cook. (If your plans change after you've begun the soaking process, just drain the beans and add fresh water; they'll store well in the fridge for up to a day or two). It takes only a few minutes to put this recipe together; once the beans are simmering on the stove, they require minimal attention. Some batches of beans cook more quickly than others; simply check them periodically for tenderness.

2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 cup leek, thinly sliced
3/4 cup celery, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 whole carrots
1 bay leaf
1 whole dried red chile pepper
2 cups cannellini beans, soaked & drained
5- 6 cups fresh water
1 teaspoon dried sage leaves (or more to taste)
1 tablespoon white miso paste

Saute leek, celery, and garlic in olive oil in a heavy bottomed soup pot until fragrant and golden. Add all remaining ingredients except miso paste. Cover and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook on a low flame for about an hour, stirring occasionally. There should be enough liquid in the pot at all times to cover the beans; add a bit of water if necessary. Use a flame tamer to prevent scorching. Beans should be completely tender when done, but ideally not mushy. When beans are done, turn off flame and remove bay leaf, chile pepper, and carrots. Dissolve miso paste in a small bowl with some broth from the beans and stir into pot. Taste and correct seasoning. Store beans in clean glass jars in fridge; they will keep well for a week or longer and may be heated in minutes for a quick delicious meal.

Serving suggestions: White beans pair well with almost any steamed leafy green vegetable. For a one-dish meal, place a serving of beans in a warm bowl and top with a few tablespoons of freshly steamed greens like arugula, spinach, chard, or kale. Or try a bowl of steaming hot beans garnished with a handful of fresh chopped cilantro and a little Louisiana hot sauce.

Winter Super Citrus Juice

2009-01-20T12:49:00.000-08:00

Home made citrus juice is a delicious and healthy winter treat which takes only moments to make and tastes nothing like store bought juice. Use any combination of good quality citrus which you have on hand. During the winter citrus season, look in the market for Minneola tangelos, blood oranges, navel oranges, and ruby red grapefruit. You don't need a fancy expensive machine to make this juice; I use a little $8.00 stainless steel hand juicer imported from Brazil. It requires a bit of muscle to squeeze juice by hand but by the end of citrus season your biceps will be stronger and your body healthier. This recipe for Minneola/blood orange juice is my seasonal favorite.

Minneola / Blood Orange Juice

2 Minneola tangelos
2 blood oranges

Wash fruit, slice into halves, and juice. Serve immediately in a glass. Drink slowly and enjoy the beautiful ruby red color and vibrant flavor of this juice.

Winter Produce Paradise

2009-01-12T09:19:00.000-08:00

Winter is citrus season in California. If you prefer to eat produce which is in season and locally grown, this is the time to experience the fabulous variety of citrus fruits which are now at their peak. In addition to the familiar Valencia and navel oranges, don't miss out on the small satsuma tangerines and clementines which are sweet, intensely flavorful, easy to peel, and usually seedless. Kids love these; they travel well to school and work, and offer important nutrients of the highest quality. Tangerines and tangelos are much less acidic than other citrus fruits and are well tolerated by most people.

Minneola tangelos are a hybrid, a cross between a tangerine and a grapefruit. Minneolas are larger than most tangerines and full of delicious bright orange juice . You'll never drink store bought orange juice again after tasting fresh squeezed Minneola juice. Blood oranges are another extraordinary citrus fruit which will soon arrive in the markets; they're wonderful sliced and tossed into a leafy green salad. But my favorite way to use blood oranges is as juice. Take a few minutes to squeeze a few blood oranges, sit down to enjoy a glass of deep ruby red juice, and remember the words of Woody Guthrie:

"California's a Garden of Eden, it's a Paradise to live in they say..."

The Atmosphere of Winter

2008-12-30T13:47:00.000-08:00

Although winter in Northern California is not characterized by dramatically low temperatures, it is a distinct season which brings rainy cool weather, chilly tule fog, and short daylight hours. As protected as we are from the seasonal changes by warm fleece apparel, central heating, and the electric light bulb, the human body is a dynamic organism whose inherent biorhythms are affected by the wintery atmosphere. Some people notice having less energy and initiative in winter; longer hours of sleep and warm foods seem more appealing than during the spring and summer months, and a period of semi- hibernation may feel appropriate or difficult to resist.

The authors of the Nei Jing, the seminal text of Traditional Chinese Medicine, recommended specific behaviors and practices for those who wished to guard their health during the winter. This text, also known as "The Yellow Emperor's Inner Classic" is over two thousand years old, but its words have retained their relevance despite the passage of time. For although technological innovations have eased our relationship with nature and the elements, the ancient physiology of humans which evolved over thousands of years has not been altered by modernity. Here are the recommendations from the Nei Jing on living in harmony with the atmosphere of Winter:

"The three months of Winter are called the period of closing and storing. Water freezes and the Earth cracks open. One should not disturb one's Yang. People should retire early at night and rise late in the morning and they should wait for the rising of the sun. They should suppress and conceal their wishes, as though they had no internal purposes, as though they had been fulfilled. People should try to escape the cold and they should seek warmth. They should not perspire upon the skin, and they should let themselves be deprived of the breath of the cold. All this is in harmony with the atmosphere of Winter and all this is the method for protection of one's storing."

Persimmons : Food of the Gods

2008-12-12T10:50:00.000-08:00

Persimmons belong to the botanical genus diospyros and have often been called the "food of the gods". Derived from the Greek, "dios" means divine, or god, and "pyros" means grain of wheat, or food. There are many species of persimmon, each with its characteristic shape, color, and taste. It's clear from their name that they have been recognized as "divine food" for a very long time.

The Japanese persimmon, diospyros kaki, is native to Asia and has been cultivated there for over a thousand years. Fuyu and Hachiya are the two Japanese varieties most familiar to westerners. Powdered dried kakis were the only form of sweetener other than honey available in Japan until the seventeenth century. The leafy calyx of the fruit, "calyx kaki" is used as a traditional Chinese medicinal herb.

The Japanese village of Hachiya was famous for its persimmons which were specially cultivated and painstakingly dried for presentation to the Imperial Court each year. "Hachiya" means "the house of the bees", an apt name for this honey- sweet variety. The labor intensive tradition of growing and drying persimmons continues to this day in the same region; the product is a highly valued luxury item.

Persimmons were also native to the the eastern half of the United States. Diospyros virginiana was prized by the Algonquin people, who called them "pessimen", which means "dried fruit"; a variant of the name became our modern term for it. Persimmon trees produce large quantities of fruit; preserving it by drying allowed pre-industrial societies to enjoy and benefit from it as an important source of food long after harvest.

A seedless variety of the Japanese Fuyu persimmon called "Sharon", named after the ancient and famously beautiful fertile coastal plain of Israel, has been developed by Israeli horticulturists; it is now a major export and is raised commercially all over the world. Today's widespread popularity of the "food of the gods" would come as no surprise to the great 17th century Japanese poet Basho, who wrote these words long ago:

"In the old villages, no house is without its kaki tree".

Perfect Persimmon Smoothie

2008-12-05T12:02:00.000-08:00

Persimmons are nature's autumnal gift to serious fruit aficionados. Stock up now on persimmons and you'll have many weeks of delicious, nutritious eating to look forward to, long after the late summer fruits disappear from the scene. Ripe persimmons contain an impressive range of high quality nutrients which will contribute to maintaining good health during the winter months. I've been refining my persimmon smoothie recipe for years; this deceptively simple formula is positively divine! (Yield: one serving).

1 fuyu or hachiya persimmon
1 cup nut milk plus more as needed
1 pinch freshly ground nutmeg*

Wash and trim the persimmon, then cut in half and remove any seeds which may be present. (Many persimmons contain no seeds at all).
Place persimmon, nut milk, and nutmeg in blender and process until smooth, adding more nut milk if you prefer a thinner smoothie. (You may substitute plain soy milk for the nut milk.)
Pour into a bowl, garnish with a little more nutmeg if desired, and eat with a spoon.

*Note: Whole nutmegs are available in natural food stores. Scrape the nutmeg carefully with a sharp knife to obtain desired amount, or use a hand grater.

Persimmon Selection and Storage:

Fuyu and Hachiya are the two persimmon varieties most commonly found in American produce markets. Fuyus, which are short, squat and shaped somewhat like a tomato, are a non-astringent variety; they are ripe and ready to eat when they are a deep orange color but still firm. Hachiya persimmons have an elongated acorn- like shape and contain high levels of naturally occuring tannins, which make unripe Hachiyas harshly astringent and completely inedible. However with thorough ripening, the tannins disappear and the Hachiya attains a delicious sweet flavor.

Fuyu persimmons can be stored for weeks in a cool room (but not in the fridge). As they ripen, their color will deepen and they will begin to soften, at which point their flavor is at its very best. Hachiyas ripen somewhat unpredictably; keep a close eye on your stash and use when the fruit is very soft from the tip to the leafy stem end (which is called the calyx). Ripe Hachiyas may be kept for a few days in the fridge. Both varieties make velvety rich smoothies which are low in calories and high in nutrients.

Remembering the Ohlone

2008-11-25T09:30:00.000-08:00

Less than 250 years ago, the territory from San Francisco's Golden Gate to the Monterey Bay was the home of the Ohlone People. The Ohlone were hunter-gatherers who successfully sustained their way of life for hundreds, if not thousands of years, using only stone- age technology and the skill and intelligence of their own hands and minds. It is thought that their population numbered close to ten thousand, if not more, and was composed of forty or fifty distinct groups spread throughout the Central California Coastal area.

The Ohlone inhabited a fertile ecosystem, teeming with wildlife and edible plant foods which provided them with a diet whose variety far exceeded that of many modern people. Few creatures were considered inedible; birds, land and sea animals, fish, shellfish, reptiles, and insects were hunted, trapped, fished, or collected. (The Coyote and Eagle, Creators of the Universe, were sacred to the Ohlone and were not hunted). Of no less importance, a great number of plant foods were gathered in their season; seeds, nuts, leaves and herbs, roots, tubers, berries and other fruits supplied a rotating array of nutrients governed by the shifting conditions of the ecosystem.

Malcolm Margolin, a Bay Area expert on Ohlone culture, writes the following in his marvelous book "The Ohlone Way": "Living in a land of great plenty, the Ohlone- unlike those who lived in a more hostile environment- did not feel that life was a 'dog-eat-dog' affair, or that each day was a grim test of survival. Not at all. There is no record of starvation anywhere in Central California. Even the myths of this area have no reference to starvation. All around the Ohlones were virtually inexhaustible resources; and for century after century the people went about their life secure in the knowledge that they lived in a generous land, a land that would always support them."*

The acorn was evidence of the generosity of the land; it was the Ohlone staff of life and center of their existence. Highly nutritious and very plentiful, acorns in the form of cereal or cakes were probably eaten at almost every meal. The life cycle of the oak tree was the organizing principle of Ohlone culture; the new year began with the autumn acorn harvest, a time of joy and celebration, and the seasons were all referred to by their relationship to the harvest. Women spent hours every day preparing acorns for cooking, a labor intensive activity which required considerable strength and ingenuity. The acorns were pounded into meal with stone pestles, then soaked in water to remove bitter tannins. The Ohlone did not have pottery vessels for cooking; acorn meal mixed with water was cooked by heating it in expertly woven water tight baskets with hot cooking stones.

Contact with the Europeans who arrived in 1769 quickly proved devastating to Ohlone culture. Having survived all other threats to human existence for countless generations, the challenge presented by the new inhabitants overcame the Ohlone. Today their descendants are known as the Muwekma Ohlone Indian Tribe; although few in number, they are engaged in a determined legal battle to receive restoration of their status as a Federally Recognized Tribe.

Today, as I hike the trails of the Presidio of San Francisco, I catch an occasional glimpse of hawks, foxes, and coyotes. I try to imagine this place as it was a few hundred years ago, and I think of these words in the language of the Miwok people who lived just north of the Golden Gate: "Eyya maya kanni"- "Don't forget me!"

*The Ohlone Way; Indian Life in the San Francisco- Monterey Bay Area by Malcolm Margolin Published by Heyday Books Berkeley, California

Autumn: Protecting One's Harvest

2008-11-12T12:38:00.000-08:00

Although most Americans are aware that Autumn is the season of falling leaves and agricultural harvest, a deeper understanding of the effect of seasonal change upon the human body and psyche is largely absent. By November in Northern California, the days are noticeably shorter and cooler and some rain has already fallen. In scientific terms, cool air is known to be hospitable to upper respiratory viruses, and the first round of colds and sore throats has begun. In addition to climatic changes, some people also notice the effect that diminishing daylight has on their energy and mood.

According to the ancient scholars of Traditional Eastern Medicine, Autumn is associated not only with the end of the agricultural growing season but brings with it a corresponding downward shift in human activity, a physiological and psychological harvest. Autumn is a time of letting go of the joys and occupations of summer and preparing for the stillness and darkness of winter. The authors of the traditional medical texts noted that grief and melancholy are the dominant emotions of Autumn, and that the "Lung" (which includes the entire respiratory system) the organ they associated with Autumn, is most vulnerable to imbalance and disease at this time.

The "Huangdi Nei Jing", The Yellow Emperor's Inner Classic, is the most important book of Chinese Medical Theory; it is thought to be about 2000 years old. Much of the text is devoted to detailed instructions on how to live in harmony "between Heaven and Earth" in order to maintain good health throughout the seasons of the year. Here is commentary on Autumn from the Huangdi Nei Jing:

"The three months of Autumn are called the period of tranquility of one's conduct. The atmosphere of Heaven is quick and the atmosphere of the Earth is clear. People should retire early at night and rise early in the morning with the crowing of the rooster. They should have their minds at peace in order to lessen the punishment of Autumn. Soul and spirit should be gathered together in order to make the breath of Autumn tranquil, and to keep their lungs pure they should not give vent to their desires. All this is in harmony with the atmosphere of Autumn and all this is the method for the protecting of one's harvest."