Wind, Rain & Cherries

Just as the California cherry season was nearing its peak in early June, a series of storms soaked the orchards, dumping two inches of rain in a single windy grey weekend. The rainfall was bad news for cherry growers, as ripe cherries readily absorb excess moisture which causes the fruit to swell and crack; the fissures invite spoilage and mar the appearance of the fruit.

But bad news for growers is not necessarily bad news for cherry lovers this year. Flavorful juicy cherries, some with blemishes but most of which are perfect (as in photos above) are in plentiful supply at low prices in small neighborhood produce markets. Supermarket chains don't purchase cosmetically imperfect fruit, nor can it be exported. California sells thousands of boxes of cherries to Japan and other Asian countries annually; this year much of that part of the harvest must be sold locally. Although a portion of the cherry crop has been damaged and growers may not have a profitable year, it looks like there will be no shortage of fruit on this side of the Pacific rim.

Our brief California cherry season ends in mid June, soon to be followed by the Pacific Northwest crop from Washington and Oregon which will provide a second much larger wave of delicious fruit, most likely throughout the month of July. So in spite of wind and rain or because of it, this summer cherry lovers will eat their fill.


Note: Wash cherries thoroughly. Damaged fruit should be removed and composted. Blot cherries dry and store loosely wrapped in plastic bags in the fridge where they should keep well for at least two weeks.

Citrus Squeeze: Minneola + Blood Orange Juice

One of the great pleasures of late winter in Northern California is the abundant supply of a wide variety of fresh citrus fruit such as Minneola tangelos, navel and Valencia oranges, Rio Star grapefruit, Cara Cara oranges and blood oranges. There are infinite ways to enjoy this annual citrus bonanza but one of the most delightful and simplest is to make a glass of fresh squeezed juice. My favorite combination is Minneola tangelo and blood orange juice; this energizing blend creates a beautiful ruby red drink with a delicate aromatic flavor.






Minneola Tangelo + Blood Orange Juice:

2 Minneola tangelos
1 blood orange

Wash fruit, cut into halves and squeeze by hand. Serve immediately in a glass; sip very slowly! Makes one serving.







Brazilian stainless steel hand powered citrus juicer, circa 1991.

Lunar New Year ~ Spring Festival

Throughout the Asian world, the Lunar New Year- Spring Festival is observed on the second new moon after the winter solstice. In Chinese the holiday is called Chun jie, in Korean Seol-na, in Vietnamese Tet, in Tibetan Losar and in Japanese Risshun. According to Chinese and Korean tradition, this is the year of the hare; for Vietnamese and Tibetans, it's the year of the cat.

In San Francisco, the dark days of winter are quickly becoming lighter; the plum trees are in full bloom, and the energy of spring is in the air, even though the official first day of spring is weeks away.

Noodles are among the traditional foods eaten on Lunar New Year; for instructions on how to prepare soba noodles (in less than 10 minutes) see post entitled "Soba Noodle Basics".

Purple Peruvian Potatoes: The Gem of the Andes

From the outside, the purple Peruvian potato looks unappealing and even unappetizing, but its lumpy dark exterior hides a beautiful amethyst hued interior of superior flavor and nutritional value. First cultivated in the Andean highlands (the altiplano), the purple potato is just one of thousands of potato varieties which were domesticated more than seven thousand years ago and were a major source of food for the Incas; the Quechua word "papa" is the linguistic root of the English word "potato".

The antioxidant phytochemical anthocyanin lends the potato its purple- blue color. (In Greek anthos= flower; kyanos= blue). Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds which are present in many fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds; cranberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, grapes, purple cabbage and olives are a few examples. Research indicates that there are many health benefits to be gained from eating plant foods which are high in anthocyanins and other antioxidants; cooking does not destroy the anthocyanins in these potatoes, which also contain good amounts of protein and vitamin C.

Purple Peruvian potatoes can be grown in any small backyard garden in Northern California; they evolved to thrive in cool climates with short daylight conditions. Some produce markets carry these and other heirloom potatoes; select a few with visible buds or "eyes" and plant them in loose soil, water occasionally, and wait. Potato plants require little care and will continue to propagate year after year. It's best to select a spot in the garden which you can segregate, as the plants will take over as much territory as you allow them to.

When shopping for Peruvian potatoes, look for firm, unblemished specimens which are small or medium in size; larger ones take longer to cook and may not be as flavorful as the smaller ones. Those which have a few buds are perfectly edible; buds are a sign that the potatoes have not been chemically treated. Store in a cool place in your pantry; their shelf life is good and they are a great staple to have on hand for quick meals.

Recipe to follow!

Delicata Squash in Aromatic Miso Broth

Delicata is one of many varieties of winter squash now arriving abundantly in produce markets. As the name implies, Delicata has a subtle creamy texture and flavor and is a bit less sweet than most other winter squash; its elongated shape and modest size makes it easy to handle and slice. Winter squash keeps well and is a good staple to have on hand for impromptu steaming, baking or soup making during cool rainy weather in the Bay Area.

This recipe is inspired by one of my favorite Japanese country soups known as oden. Classic oden is made with dashi, a sea vegetable stock which is a staple of traditional Japanese cuisine. The other ingredients are cooked separately and added to the dashi, creating a flavorful broth studded with satisfying chunks of tender seasonal vegetables, roasted whole eggs, fish balls, tofu and other delicacies.

When making this much simpler vegan rendition (which cannot really be called oden), the vegetables are cut into chunks and simmered gently directly in the broth until tender but not falling apart. Vegetables which require less cooking are added after the denser ones have cooked for a while. When the soup is done and the heat is off, the miso is added. (For more about cooking with miso see earlier post "Miso Demystified"). The thickness of vegetable slices is approximate; just remember that the size and density of the vegetables will affect cooking time.


6 cups fresh water
1 large carrot, cut into pieces about 1 inch long
1 piece leek about 6 inches long, sliced into segments 1- 2 inches long
2 celery ribs, cut into segments 1- 2 inches long
2 or 3 strips kombu or wakame sea vegetable (optional)
3 or 4 small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in half
2 fresh jalapeno peppers, whole
1 or 2 whole garlic cloves
1 bay leaf
4 or 5 sprigs parsley
1 tablespoon Mirin rice wine (optional)
1 medium delicata squash, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds (seeds removed)
1 medium zucchini, sliced into 1 inch rounds
2 tablespoons white miso paste
lemon juice

Place water, carrot, leek, celery, sea vegetable (if using), potatoes, jalapenos, garlic and bay leaf in a soup pot. Bring to a boil and lower heat. Place parsley sprigs on top of other vegetables, cover and simmer gently for about 10 minutes. Add rice wine (if using) and Delicata squash slices to pot, cover and continue to simmer another 10 minutes or so. If vegetables are not mostly covered in broth, add a little more water. Add zucchini slices and continue cooking a few more minutes until zucchini is almost tender. (About 5 minutes). In a small bowl, dissolve miso paste in a few tablespoons of soup broth, return mixture to pot and turn off heat. Allow soup to rest about 5 minutes; taste and add more dissolved miso paste if needed.

Remove garlic, jalapenos, sea vegetable and bay leaf. Serve soup in warm bowls with lemon slices as a garnish. Sea vegetable and jalapeno may be sliced into strips and added to each serving at the table.

Note: Baked tofu cut into cubes is another delicious garnish which may be added at the table. Warm the cubes briefly in a small skillet before serving.

Gazpacho!

This week my kitchen counters are crowded with freshly harvested Northern California produce; fragrant pale green apples from the East Bay, colorful winter squash from Santa Cruz, and ripe tomatoes from Sonoma- lots and lots of very ripe tomatoes. Apples and squash will keep well but the tomatoes will not, so I turned to a solution which creative cooks invented centuries ago: gazpacho!

Gazpacho, which the Oxford English Dictionary defines as a Spanish soup made with tomatoes and other vegetables, most likely originated in Andalusia; sources more fanciful than the OED claim that the word derives from the Arabic for "soaked bread". Whatever its origins, the combination of tomato and other vegetables, vinegar, olive oil and bread has venerable roots in the agricultural societies around the Mediterranean. A simpler and more deliciously refreshing way to savor the season's best tomatoes does not exist.

Although the recipe provides exact measurements, don't be inhibited by them. Start with some really ripe flavorful tomatoes and add just a few more quality ingredients to the mix. Although I prefer the flavor of an all vegetable gazpacho, you may blend in a slice of leftover baguette as is traditional. It takes only minutes to make this ultra healthy energizing meal in a bowl; wash and chop vegetables, blend and serve!


4 cups ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons celery, chopped
2 tablespoons leek, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
juice of 2 or more lemons
2 teaspoons unflavored vinegar (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
a few fresh or dried basil leaves or oregano
fresh water as needed

garnish options:

1 cup tomatoes, cubed
1 cup cucumber, cubed
1 cup sweet yellow or red peppers
2 jalapeno peppers, diced


Place tomatoes, celery, leek, and garlic in blender and pulse a few times until tomatoes begin to liquefy; blend vegetables in stages if blender is too full. Add lemon juice, vinegar if using, olive oil, salt and basil, and pulse gently a few more times, adding a little water if mixture seems too thick. If you prefer a very smooth textured gazpacho, continue to blend.

Taste and correct seasoning, adding more lemon juice or vinegar and salt as desired. The gazpacho flavor will develop if you allow it to rest for a few minutes; if weather is warm, chill gazpacho briefly before serving. Gazpacho's fresh sparkling flavor is best enjoyed shortly after it is made.

Serve in individual chilled bowls; place garnishes on table in small bowls and allow diners to add their choice. Or for a quick light meal or snack, blend a smaller quantity of the gazpacho ingredients and serve without garnish in a glass.

Autumn is Harvest

Autumn Harvest Festivals:
Agricultural societies in many parts of the northern hemisphere harvest their major crops in the autumn. In China the primary harvest is celebrated in autumn with the Moon Festival; it coincides with the full moon. The Jewish world observes the harvest festival of Sukkot during the first full moon following Rosh HaShana, and Canadians have their Thanksgiving holiday in October. The original American Thanksgiving is thought to have been held in early autumn, immediately after the harvest; in later years its date was pushed to the end of November for commercial purposes.

Harvest Etymology:
Linguistically, harvest is synonymous with autumn. Until the 16th century, "harvest" was the word English speakers used to refer to the autumn season; it is a direct derivative of the Old High German word "herbist" and the later German "herbst" which mean "autumn". The word in Old English is "haerfest"; the Dutch is "herfst". The Oxford English Dictionary defines "harvest" as follows:

1. The third season of the year, autumn.
2. The season for the cutting and gathering in of ripened grain and other produce.
3. The crop of ripened grain.

The OED offers this quote from Milton to illustrate proper usage of the word:

"Seed time and Harvest and hoary Frost shall hold their course."


Autumn Haiku:

Autumn moonlight-
a worm digs silently
into the chestnut

--Basho, 1644- 1694

A Pear is Wabi Sabi

Wabi sabi is a Japanese expression which describes the beauty of things which are transient, imperfect, incomplete, rustic, simple, serene and melancholy.

Wabi is translated as meaning simple, humble, healthy or normal. Sabi literally means rusty but it also refers to the elegant beauty of something as it matures and ages. Some sources state that the term wabi sabi was originally used to describe the aesthetic beauty of a rusty tea kettle in which water was boiled for the traditional tea ceremony. Tea ceremony implements which embody the value of wabi sabi are highly prized by practitioners.

The beauty of a ripe pear may be appreciated only briefly; its color, fragrance and taste are at their peak when it reaches maturity. Whether the pear is picked and eaten or allowed to fall from the tree its existence is momentary; the pear harvest signals the end of summer, the coming of autumn and the cold dark days of winter.

A pear is wabi sabi.

Summer Squash & Tomato Salad: Warm Is Cool

This minimalist composed salad is a simple combination of steamed summer squash, fresh raw tomatoes and herbs. Ultra ripe flavorful tomatoes such as dry farmed, heirloom or home grown are best for this recipe. Fresh aromatic herbs like basil, parsley or oregano are a perfect compliment to the delicate warm squash and the cool tangy tomato.


4 summer squash, sliced less than 1/4 inch thick
2- 3 medium tomatoes, sliced about 1/4 inch thick
fresh herbs such as Italian parsley, basil or oregano

2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 2 large lemons
2 or 3 tablespoons water
2 pinches sea salt or to taste
2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves

Steam squash slices until just tender. While squash is cooking, slice tomatoes and arrange on a platter. Make salad dressing by combining olive oil, lemon juice, water, sea salt and oregano in a glass jar. Shake well, taste and adjust seasoning.

Remove squash carefully from steamer basket. Compose salad by placing a layer of warm squash on top of tomato slices; make another layer if there are more vegetables. Garnish with parsley or basil leaves.

Serve salad immediately on individual plates; sprinkle liberally with salad dressing. Wrap extra salad well and store in the fridge; it will taste great the next day.

White Bean Bisque with Fresh Herbs

White beans are a versatile staple which require little effort to prepare and which can be transformed into an endless variety of quick delicious meals. Cooking legumes is easy! Use dried beans which have not been stored in your pantry for too long; older beans may have less flavor and take longer to cook. Pick over the beans and soak in fresh water for 6- 8 hours or overnight; drain soaking water before cooking. Cook beans in a heavy soup pot; a flame tamer will distribute heat evenly and prevent burning.

This luxurious jade green soup is made in two simple steps. In the first, the beans are cooked; in the second the bisque is processed in a blender, heated briefly and served. The recipe calls for fresh herbs such as basil, Italian parsley, oregano or cilantro; a combination of two or three herbs works well but even one will suffice. (You can also use fresh spinach or arugula leaves in the same manner.) The herbs are pureed with the cooked beans, resulting in an aromatic bisque which may be enjoyed hot or chilled.


White Beans: Basic cooking method

2 cups cannellini or other white beans, soaked and drained
5- 6 cups fresh water
3 cloves garlic, whole
1 large bay leaf
2 ribs celery, whole
2 medium carrots, whole
2 fresh jalapeno or serrano peppers, whole


Place the soaked and drained beans in a soup pot with fresh water. Bring to a simmer over a medium flame, add remaining ingredients and cover. Allow beans to simmer gently until tender which will take 30- 45 minutes; add more water if necessary while cooking. When beans are done, remove vegetables from pot and set them aside to use later as you wish. Store beans and cooking broth in clean glass jars in the fridge for up to several days.


White Bean Bisque with Fresh Herbs


2 cups cooked cannellini beans
1+1/2 cups plain soy milk (approx)
1/2 cup broth from cooking beans (approx)
2 teaspoons white miso paste
(or 1/4 teaspoon sea salt, more to taste)
1 handful fresh basil, Italian parsley and oregano leaves
1 fresh jalapeno or serrano pepper, chopped

Place beans, soy milk and miso in blender and process until smooth, then blend in herbs and jalapeno. Add more liquid if needed; the bisque should not be too thin but the consistency is up to you. Extra herbs may be used for a more intense flavor.

Gently heat bisque until just warmed through; over heating will alter the delicate flavor and color of the herbs. Serve immediately in warm bowls; garnish with a few fresh oregano leaves.

Summer: When The Fire is on the Planet

According to the words of the Yellow Emperor, whose Classic of Medicine dates from the second century BCE, summer is the season of "The hot weather, the Fire on the planet, the blood vessels, the color red, laughter and joy..."

The Heart, which houses the spirit and moves the blood, is the organ associated with the summer season; compassion and the surrender of ego are its tasks and love is its positive manifestation.

In summer, one is instructed "to be happy and easygoing and not hold grudges, so that the energy can flow freely and circulate between the external and the internal. In this way illnesses may be averted..."

-- Neijing Suwen circa 240 BCE (The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Medicine)

Photo: Dahlia Garden in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco

Aji? Peruvian Salsa Verde!

I was first introduced to this classic Peruvian hot sauce years ago by a native of the Amazonian city of Iquitos; it soon became my favorite green salsa and I've been making it ever since in my San Francisco kitchen. Aji is a heady blend of hot chiles, fresh cilantro, lime juice, olive oil and garlic; its exhilarating flavor quickly becomes habit forming. Yet this beautiful brilliant green treat takes only moments to prepare; all that is needed is a blender and a few simple ingredients.

It's easy to regulate the heat of the aji by adjusting the type of chiles you select. Fresh jalapeno and serrano chiles can be found in many ethnic produce markets; they provide excellent flavor and potent but not stratospheric heat. Removing the seeds from the peppers will tone down their burn. If you want to turn up the temperature, use serranos instead of jalapenos, or add a few small green Thai "bird" chiles to the mix.

Wash the cilantro thoroughly before chopping; use the stems as well as the leaves. The measurements in the recipe are simply a guideline; don't be too concerned about the exact amounts. After you've followed the recipe once or twice, you'll be comfortable making aji without measuring.

Be careful not to touch your face or eyes when handling chile peppers; their oil and juice can cause painful burning upon contact with sensitive tissues. Wash hands well during and after preparation of this recipe.


3 or 4 medium fresh jalapenos, roughly chopped
1 large clove garlic, halved
1/4 cup fresh lime or lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

Place jalapenos, garlic, lime juice, olive oil and salt in blender. Pulse until ingredients begin to liquefy. Add cilantro in stages and pulse until mixture is fairly smooth; use a bit more olive oil or lime juice if the aji seems too thick. Store aji in a clean glass jar in the fridge; its bright green color and flavor will keep well for several days.

Cilantro!

Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley; all refer to the same plant whose botanical name is coriandrum sativum. A member of the parsley family, cilantro is native to the eastern Mediterranean region and has a history of thousands of years of culinary and medicinal use. Coriander seed pods which date back more than 7000 years have been discovered in ancient caves by Israeli archeologists; the seed is mentioned by name in the Hebrew Bible in what must be its earliest literary reference.

Cilantro's fresh aromatic flavor as well as its ultra healthy nutrients make it a valuable kitchen staple; its roots, seeds and leaves are prized by cooks of many ethnicities. Cilantro and parsley are the two top U.S. fresh herbs; the market value of the California cilantro crop now exceeds $30 million annually. An ample supply of affordable organic California grown cilantro is available year round.

When shopping for cilantro, select fresh bright green unwilted specimens. Cilantro does not have a long shelf life but when handled properly it will keep for several days in your fridge. Before storing cilantro, remove wire fasteners or rubber bands, discard damaged or discolored leaves and wrap the stems in a clean damp paper towel. Place in a clean dry plastic bag without crushing the leaves; close loosely. Remember to wash cilantro thoroughly before using.

It's easy to incorporate cilantro into your kitchen repertoire; chop a handful and add to raw vegetable or fruit salads, stir fried vegetables, soups and stews. Garnish your favorite legume dishes with cilantro, lemon or lime juice and fresh chile peppers. Special cilantro recipe to follow!

Wildflowers: Nature's Fireworks

Northwestern Indian Paintbrush ( Castilleja Angustifolia)
Presidio, San Francisco

Blue is for Berries!

Wild blueberries were a valuable seasonal food gathered by Native Americans of the Northeast for thousands of years, just as huckleberries were to the native peoples of Northern California and the Pacific Northwest. But it wasn't until the early 20th century in the state of New Jersey that blueberries were first domesticated for large scale cultivation. Since then, North America has become the world's largest blueberry producer; British Columbia, Maine, Michigan, New Jersey, Nova Scotia, Oregon and Quebec are among the top growers.

Until recently, California had virtually no blueberry crop, as the available varieties thrived only in cool moist climates. Thanks to the dedicated work of scientists at the University of Florida in the 1990's, hybrid blueberry varieties have been developed which grow well in warmer climates and the California blueberry crop has blossomed. Last year's harvest weighed in at 20 million pounds and the increasing demand for this delicious nutrient dense fruit is driving those numbers ever higher. As production has grown, prices for what has long been a luxury item in California have fallen and fresh blueberries can be found at more affordable prices during the height of the growing season.

Berries of all sorts have lately become the focus of much interest for their healthy properties, and a growing body of new research indicates that the antioxidants and other nutrients in berries may be important keys to protection against certain cancers, improving memory and learning capacity, lowering LDL cholesterol, maintaining normal blood sugar levels and supporting healthy eyesight. Anthocyanins are the purple- blue antioxidant compounds which make blueberries blue; they are also present in significant amounts in many other plant foods such as cherries, red and purple grapes, red cabbage, beets, cranberries, blood oranges, strawberries and cocoa.

Fresh blueberries are most nutritious when eaten raw; enjoy them solo for snacks at work or school, or add a handful to your favorite fruit salad. For a special treat, blend blueberries with nut milk or soy milk; serve immediately in chilled glasses. Summer is the season for blue velvet smoothies!

Red Lentils: A 10,000 year old legume

When the legendary hunter Esau returned home to the family tent, famished from a day spent tracking game, he insisted on eating a bowl of lentils, not meat. "Let me swallow that red, some of that red stuff..." he said to his brother Jacob, who then gave him the lentils he was cooking. (Yes, there's much more to that story; you can look it up).

A valuable source of protein and other essential nutrients, lentils have been cultivated in the Near East since the Neolithic Era (circa 9500 BCE) making them one of the earliest crops domesticated by humans. In South Asia, home to a large vegetarian culture, lentils of many varieties are a daily staple for millions. Their versatility and satisfying flavor have created a remarkable culinary tradition from which every home chef can draw inspiration.

Red lentils are small and split into halves, making them among the easiest legumes to prepare as they require less than a half hour to cook. Once you learn this basic lentil recipe, create your own variations by incorporating your favorite spices and herbs. Dried red lentils will keep well in your pantry, ready for impromptu meals using any seasonal vegetables you have on hand. There is no need to pre-soak the lentils, but do pick them over and wash them before continuing preparation.


Red Lentil Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 dried red chile peppers, crumbled
2/3 cup cilantro or Italian parsley, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 bay leaf
2 medium sweet potatoes, diced
2 cups red lentils
5 - 6 cups fresh water
1 - 2 tablespoons white miso paste (or sea salt to taste)
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon fresh or dried marjoram or oregano
2 small zucchinis, thinly sliced
juice of one large lemon

In a thick bottomed soup pot, saute leek, garlic and chile peppers in olive oil until fragrant. Add cilantro, celery and carrot, and continue to saute a few more minutes on a medium flame; if needed add a bit more olive oil. Add bay leaf, sweet potatoes, lentils and water. Stir well, cover soup and bring to a gentle simmer. Stir occasionally and allow to cook on a low flame for 20- 30 minutes, adding more water if soup is too thick. When lentils are soft, remove about a cupful from the pot, place in a bowl and stir in miso, paprika and marjoram. Return miso mixture to the pot. Add zucchini slices, cover, and allow soup to rest for a few minutes on a very low flame without bubbling until zucchini is tender. Stir in lemon juice and serve in warm soup bowls garnished with lemon slices, chopped cilantro and more chile pepper.

Fresh Favas are Fabulous!

Yes, I know. Preparing fresh fava beans is a lot of work. All that husking, steaming and peeling; the big mound of green pods which shrinks into a modest bowl of beans, the dark fava juice stains on your fingertips, the pile of empty husks to schlep out to the compost bin. But there's nothing as fabulous in the height of springtime as a bowl of delicate fresh fave to savor slowly after hard labor.

The fava season is very short and is awaited eagerly by aficionados. If you spot fresh favas in the produce market, take a generous quantity home or you may have to wait till next spring for another opportunity. Select unblemished pods and avoid any which have begun to split open or are too large, as this indicates that the beans are overly mature.

Shelling favas can be a pleasant meditative activity; sit with a bowl in your lap and enjoy the simple task of splitting open the pods and removing the beans. To cook, bring a pot of fresh water to a boil; add the beans and simmer gently for three to five minutes until just tender. Remove from heat immediately, drain and immerse in a bowl of cold water to prevent further cooking.

When cool enough to handle, remove the thin outer skin from each bright green bean (more meditation, more compost!) Place peeled favas in a bowl, sprinkle with olive oil, fresh lemon juice and a little sea salt. Serve immediately and with the first taste you'll agree that this fabulous slow food is worth every minute of preparation!



Health note: A genetic disorder known as G6PD deficiency, most common in individuals of African, Middle Eastern and South Asian heritage, can cause critical illness following consumption of fava beans. For further information, please Google "favism" or "G6PD deficiency".

Artichoke: An Ancient Thistle

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word artichoke was originally an Arabic term, al kharsuf. Artichoke cultivation has been traced to ninth century North Africa; when the edible thistle was introduced to Spain in the middle ages it took on the Old Spanish name, alcarchofa; in ancient Italy it was called articiocco, which is clearly where the English word originated. The French say artichaut, and may comment that someone has "coeur d'artichaut, une feuille pour tout le monde". (A heart like an artichoke, a leaf for everyone.)

Artichokes grow well in California which produces 100% of the U.S. commercial crop. It is a thrill to see the rows and rows of silvery gray artichoke plants growing on the big farms along California's coastal roads in springtime. Every part of the plant has a magical, other worldly beauty; the long spiky leaves, the tightly closed green center leaves which form the edible globe, and the deep purple blossoms which bloom when the fruit is left unharvested. It is a food which may be enjoyed even without eating.

In my own neighborhood in San Francisco, I have discovered a beautiful artichoke garden nestled along the side of a private home; every year I enjoy observing the life cycle of these plants, one of which is in the photo above. In addition to being easy to grow and aesthetically delightful, artichokes are a gourmet springtime treat with excellent nutritional properties including generous amounts of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, fiber and protein. So, whether you know it as al kharsuf, alcarchofa, articiocco, artichaut or artichoke, now is the time to enjoy this ancient edible thistle.

Preparation: Steam well rinsed artichokes gently in a steamer basket over simmering water until tender. Artichoke is done when a leaf detaches easily when pulled. Serve with a simple dipping sauce of lemon juice, olive oil and salt. Chilled or room temperature artichokes are delicious, so remember to steam a few extras to store in the fridge for later use.

Beets are Beautiful!

Beets are beautiful, especially these red and white striped heirloom Italian Chioggia beets which are named after a coastal fishing town south of Venice. Striped, golden, or red, beets are versatile, simple to prepare, nutritious and irresistibly sweet whether roasted, steamed, cooked in soup or sliced into salad.

If you purchase beets with green leaves still attached, carefully cut them from the root with a sharp knife. The greens are best used right away when they are at their freshest. Wash well, slice stems and leaves and steam briefly or saute in a little olive oil with some onion, leek or garlic. Beet greens are very flavorful and simple preparation is all they require.

Beet roots keep well in the fridge for 3 or 4 weeks; store in a loosely closed plastic bag. Steaming whole beets without cutting or peeling is quite simple. Place 3 or 4 medium sized well scrubbed beets in a pot and add enough water so that the beets are about 2/3 covered. Bring water to boil, lower heat, and allow to simmer gently until beets are tender when pierced, about 35- 45 minutes. Cooking time will vary depending on size.

Carefully transfer cooked beets to a large bowl and allow to cool enough to handle. Place a beet on a cutting board and slice in half. Put beet halves cut side down and remove skin which will slip off easily, then slice into half rounds. Store sliced beets in a clean glass jar in fridge; their sweetness will develop as they cool. To enjoy a warm beet salad right away, arrange slices in a bowl, sprinkle with a little olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and sea salt to taste; then enjoy the deep red beauty of beets!

For more beet recipes, see posts titled "Pacific Rim Beet Borscht" and "Butternut & Beet Saute".

Butternut & Beet Saute

What to do with a steamed butternut squash and some freshly cooked beets? Saute a little leek, garlic and ginger root, add cubed squash and beets, toss with fresh herbs and lemon juice and eat!

This sweet, spicy, tangy and colorful combo is simple to prepare in two steps; cook the squash and beets ahead of time, set aside and do the sauteing just before serving. The proportions are flexible; you may use equal amounts of butternut and beets or alter the ratio as you desire.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup leek or onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, minced
3 cups steamed butternut squash, cubed
2 medium beets, steamed and cubed
1 handful Italian parsley or cilantro, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh oregano or marjoram
1/2 cup water
juice of 2 lemons
sea salt to taste

Saute leek, garlic and ginger in olive oil until fragrant. Add squash and toss gently on medium heat for a few minutes, adding a little more olive oil if needed, until squash is heated through. Add beets, parsley and oregano and continue to heat for another 2 or 3 minutes. If mixture is too dry, sprinkle with some water, which will allow vegetables to steam. Lower heat, add lemon juice and sea salt. Correct seasoning and serve immediately in warm bowls with a few lemon slices as garnish.

Note: See post titled "Kabocha, Japanese Winter Squash" for easy instructions on how to steam a whole squash.