Black Radish Quick Pickle

 

 Scrub two or three medium black radishes, rinse and pat dry. Cut radishes into matchsticks. Toss well with freshly minced garlic, juice from one lemon and sea salt to taste. Let sit in a bowl for a few hours; stir once or twice. Garnish with lemon peel or zest; toss and enjoy!  Store in a glass jar in fridge. 

Meditation on a Black Radish

Black Radish

The black radish, with its rough thick outer shell and pure white pungent bitter interior, is the dark horse of the radish universe. Cultivated by farmers since the days of ancient Egypt, Raphanis sativus var. sativus tolerates extremes of climate, grows to a generous size and contains considerable quantities of vitamin C.

 I am told that the black radish, which stores very well, was a staple food for my Eastern European ancestors during long cold winters when few fresh vegetables were available. It was peeled and sliced and eaten with raw onion, salt and heavy dark sourdough rye bread. In France it is known as "Gros noir d'hiver",  or "large black of winter".



                                             black radish
                                             your rhino hide shell
                                             protects a bitter snowy core
                                             from which the lovely
                                             green shoots spring

Nourishing the Roots: The Source of Vitality

A tree with a deep, well developed root system is more likely to survive periods of drought, heat, cold or other extreme weather conditions. According to Traditional Chinese Medicine, (TCM), the same can be said for humans. Maintaining a healthy, robust constitution is essential to one's ability to withstand the inevitable mental, emotional and physical challenges which confront us all.

Our genetic make up is referred to in TCM as the "inherited constitution" or "ancestral energy". Each person is born with their own unique quantity and quality of constitutional energy, which determines the trajectory of birth, growth, maturation, aging and death. Ancestral energy is finite; when it is used up the organism ceases to live.

An essential teaching of TCM is the importance of nurturing the inherited constitution through proper life style, which is the foundation of "acquired energy". This means that the preponderance of the body's day to day energetic needs should be derived from appropriate food, exercise, and sleep. If acquired energy is not replenished on a daily basis, the body taps into the finite storehouse of ancestral energy, reducing vitality, resilience and shortening its lifespan.

Like the root system of a tree, the body's vital organs are hidden, but they are the source of our ability to sustain life. Nourishing the roots is a day by day mindfulness practice which can provide us with the emotional and physical strength to meet the vicissitudes of life.
 

Must be the Season of the Root!

Long before the era of Pop Tarts, Cocoa Puffs, Twinkies and Big Macs, our ancestors lived exclusively on wild food which they gathered and hunted. Anthropologists state that the average gatherer/ hunter walked five to seven miles daily in search of food. Depending on climate, season and geography, roots, leaves, berries, nuts and seeds were among the main sources of nutrients. Wild animals, fish and insects supplemented forager's diets.

For the majority of human existence we grew no grain, raised no meat, milked no cows. Our food had no labels, packaging or advertising campaigns. At times food was scarce, at times it was abundant. Our daily occupation was to find enough to eat. Somehow our species succeeded in feeding itself well enough through the millenia to reproduce and survive without benefit of a single manufactured food product.

The first rains have begun to fall on Northern California and the produce landscape at farmer's markets has undergone a dramatic shift. Roots and tubers are everywhere; hairy, bumpy, lumpy and decorated with dirt from the fields.  

Often overlooked and under appreciated, roots are nutritious, affordable and simple to prepare. Most roots can be baked, steamed, roasted or stewed; just scrub and apply some sort of heat until tender. Roast a selection of cut up roots in a baking dish, or mash steamed roots with a little sea salt, olive oil and herbs for a delicious meal.  Create flavorful, healthy soup by simmering beets with carrots, celery and onion.

When shopping for roots and tubers, look for those which are organically grown. Specimens without breaks in the skin are preferable but superficial blemishes will not affect quality. Not all roots are beautiful, but they have sustained human life for generations. Winter is the ideal season to return to our roots!

Watermelon Radish: A Purple (Fuschia?) Pickle

Watermelon radishes entered my culinary life on a dismal, wet Sunday morning at the local farmer's market this winter.  From the outside these fist sized roots bear only a hint of their bright interiors; I almost passed them by in my haste to seek shelter from the rain.

Then I noticed that Asian American shoppers were quickly snapping them up in quantity. I took the hint that I had come upon a vegetable kingdom delicacy and brought some home for further exploration. As soon as I cut one open, I was inspired by its gorgeous color to turn the whole batch into watermelon radish pickles. The process was quick and easy and the finished product so delicious that I have been making them regularly ever since. You might want to double the recipe!
 

Ingredients:

3 - 4  medium watermelon radishes
2 cups fresh water
1 teaspoon sea salt

Method:

Scrub radishes and trim off the tops and bottoms. Slice into rounds, then cut rounds into strips. In a bowl, dissolve sea salt in water. Pack radish pieces into a very clean glass jar and pour in the brine. If all the slices are not completely covered in liquid, make a little extra and add to the jar. As long as the vegetables are immersed in brine, only healthy microorganisms will multiply as fermentation begins.

Cover jar with a lid but do not tighten; a little breathing room is necessary for the gases produced by fermentation. Place jar on kitchen counter; your work is done!  The radishes will begin to ferment after a day or two, depending on the temperature of your kitchen and other atmospheric variables. In a few days the brine and the radishes will turn a uniformly deep purple - fuschia tint.

After four or five days, the radishes will have a pleasingly tart- sour flavor and will still be somewhat crunchy. I usually ferment the pickles for about five days; then I place the jar in the fridge where they will continue to ferment at a slower pace. They are edible at any stage. 

Pickled watermelon radish will compliment almost any vegetable dish. Lately I've been eating them with steamed vegetables like Brussels sprouts tossed with toasted sesame seeds and tofu cubes. Or add radishes to a steaming bowl of lentils or black beans as a garnish, or simply serve as a side dish.  Fermented radishes are packed with beneficial microorganisms and will add striking flavor and beauty to your meal.

Hijiki Carrot & Ginger Salad

Hijiki is a highly nutritious versatile sea vegetable which grows wild in coastal areas of Asia.  Its name is translated as "deer-tail grass" or "sheep-nest grass". Seaweeds have long been staples in traditional Asian cuisine and are among the few wild foods to which westerners have access.

In its dried state, hijiki will keep well for many months and can be transformed into a delightful meal in minutes. Brief soaking is required before cooking to rehydrate the hijiki, which quadruples in volume as it absorbs water.  Photo above is hijiki before soaking, photo below after soaking.

Hijiki soaking technique:

Place hijiki in a fine meshed sieve and rinse briefly in cool water. Then place hijiki in a bowl with enough cool water to cover. After about ten minutes, strain the hijiki over a bowl,  reserving the soaking water for use in cooking. Gently squeeze the hijiki to remove more liquid. Some sediment will settle to to bottom of the soaking water.

Hijiki Carrot & Ginger Salad:

1/3 cup dried hijiki, soaked & drained
1 + tablespoons toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons leek, green part ok
2 tablespoons fresh ginger root, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
4 large carrots, julienned
hijiki soaking water
1 + tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
1 teaspoon maple syrup

While hijiki is soaking, cut up the vegetables.  The green part of the leek adds color to the dish but onion is fine if no leeks are available.  The size of the carrot julienne will determine the length of the cooking time.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet and saute the leek slices for about two minutes on a moderate flame. (Olive oil, though not traditional, is fine if no sesame oil is on hand). Add ginger root, stir briefly then add garlic. Saute gently for another two minutes, then add carrots. A little more oil might be needed to cook the carrots. Continue sauteing for about four or five minutes, stirring occasionally.

When carrots are just tender,  stir in hijiki. Pour soaking water carefully into pan, leaving the sediment in the bowl. Add tamari and maple syrup, stir thoroughly and remove from heat. Turn vegetables into a ceramic bowl and allow to rest a few minutes before serving.

Hijiki salad is delicious served warm, room temperature or chilled. It can be prepared ahead of time and will keep well in the fridge for up to three days. Eat as is or garnish to your taste with fresh lemon or lime juice, toasted sesame seeds or a few drops of hot chile- sesame oil.

A Carrot For Estragon (Is That All There Is?)

A Short Excerpt from Waiting for Godot, by Samuel Beckett  

Estragon: (violently). I'm hungry.
Vladimir: Do you want a carrot?
Estragon: Is that all there is?
Vladimir: I might have some turnips.
Estragon: Give me a carrot. (Vladimir rummages in his pockets, takes out a turnip and gives it to Estragon who takes a bite out of it. Angrily.) It's a turnip!
Vladimir: Oh pardon! I could have sworn it was a carrot. (He rummages again in his pockets, finds nothing but turnips.) All that's turnip. (He rummages.)  You must have eaten the last. (He rummages.) Wait, I have it. (He brings out a carrot and gives it to Estragon.) There, dear fellow.
(Estragon wipes the carrot on his sleeve and begins to eat it.) Make it last, that's the end of them.
Estragon: (chewing.) I asked you a question.
Vladimir: Ah.
Estragon: Did you reply?
Vladimir: How's the carrot?
Estragon: It's a carrot.


 A close reading of these lines from Beckett's iconic play reveals that Estragon is hungry enough to eat a carrot (though not a turnip) but he does so without enthusiasm. "Is that all there is?" he asks.  It seems that Estragon would prefer something more exciting to quiet his hunger while waiting for Godot.

Arriving home after a recent cross country flight I found that my vegetable drawer had little more to offer than a handful of carrots. Is that all there is? I thought.  Perhaps as hungry as Estragon,  I scrubbed,  trimmed, sliced and sauteed the carrots in olive oil. Sprinkled with a bit of sea salt, they were so sweetly satisfying to my traveler's hunger that I've repeated the exercise several times since, even when more exotic fare was available.

Here is my offering, a carrot recipe inspired by Estragon, who may still be hungry, and who is certainly still waiting for Godot.


Carrots Sauteed in Olive Oil

4 or 5 medium carrots, scrubbed and trimmed
1- 2  tablespoons olive oil
sea salt to taste

Slice the carrots into diagonal pieces as seen in the photo above. Heat a heavy skillet, add olive oil and saute the carrots on medium heat for about five minutes, stirring occasionally and adding more olive oil if needed to keep carrots from sticking. The carrots will begin to soften and turn golden brown around the edges.  After about five minutes, taste one of the carrot slices. It should be almost tender but not crunchy. When done, remove carrots from heat, sprinkle with a little sea salt and serve immediately.

Samuel Beckett (1906- 1989) was born in Ireland and lived most of his life in France. He originally wrote Waiting For Godot in French (En Attendant Godot) and later translated the play into English. It is considered one of the most significant English language plays of the 20th century. Beckett was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1969.

Japanese Sweet Potato Rice: Imo Gohan

Every year in the heart of winter, a few weeks after the New Year when the mornings are still very dark and the days are chilly, a small thought begins to ring persistently in my head like a distant bell. Eventually I realize that it is the bell of imo gohan, announcing that it's time to make a pot of this rustic Japanese sweet potato and rice dish, one of my winter favorites.

Japanese sweet potato, like the American sweet potato, does not look like much on the outside. It has a dull pinkish purple skin. When cooked, it is creamy yellow inside, pleasantly but not cloyingly sweet, and tastes something like a chestnut. This is the sweet potato for those who've never cared for the ultra sweet American variety.

Imo gohan  is a one pot meal, very simple to make. It's best to plump the brown rice first by soaking it over night or for about six hours, which will shorten the cooking time.  Rice, water and sweet potato then go into the pot together and are cooked for about one hour.  The addition of black or "forbidden" rice is optional, but it does add pleasing texture and color to the dish.

Imo Gohan:

2 cups short grain brown rice, soaked overnight, rinsed and drained
1 handful black rice (optional)
4 cups fresh water
2 medium Japanese sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into chunks
1 teaspoon sea salt
toasted sesame seed garnish (gomasio) or tamari sauce


Place rice in a heavy pot with water and sea salt. Arrange sweet potato pieces on top of the rice. It's ok if the potatoes are not entirely covered in water.

Cover and bring to a boil, then simmer on a low light for at least one hour. Place a flame tamer under the pot to prevent scorching. When rice is tender, turn off heat, fluff gently without mashing the sweet potatoes and allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Imo gohan  is delicious sprinkled with gomasio or a little tamari sauce to taste. Serve in a pre-heated bowl. It is best enjoyed while studying the poems of Basho or contemplating the coming of spring and the Lunar New Year.

For more about Japanese Sweet Potato see post titled "Japanese Sweet Potato/ Satsuma Imo".
For gomasio recipe see post titled "Gomasio/ Sesame Seed Condiment".

Fire & Ice : Winter Tomato Carrot & Ginger Soup

 

The classic Chinese medical texts describe Winter as the season of "ultimate yin". Darkness and cold predominate and people instinctively seek the yang energy of heat and light to counter Winter's icy nature.  This simple soup contains two strongly yang elements. Red is the color associated with the heat of Summer, the season of "ultimate yang". Ginger root is one of the most warming herbs in the traditional Chinese pharmacopeia.  This subtly sweet gingery recipe is a delicious formula for balancing ice with fire in the season of ultimate yin.


Tomato Carrot Ginger Soup:

1 leek, white part only, sliced
1 rib celery, sliced
2 large carrots, sliced
2 slices fresh ginger root or more to taste
2 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 bay leaf
1 can (1 lb 12 oz) whole Italian tomatoes with liquid
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon raw cashew or almond butter (optional)
1/2 roasted red pepper, sliced  (optional)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or to taste

Place leek, celery, carrots, ginger root, garlic, bay leaf and tomatoes in a pot and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook on low flame for about 15 minutes adding a little water  if necessary to make sure vegetables are almost covered in cooking liquid. The vegetables should  be cooked until just tender enough to process in the blender.

Stir in maple syrup, nut butter and roasted red pepper if using, and sea salt. Remove bay leaf. Turn off flame and allow soup to cool before blending.  Hot liquids may create a vacuum in the blender during processing and can spatter even if the blender lid is in place.

When soup is blended taste and correct seasoning. Re heat gently without boiling before serving. If the soup is too thick,  add a little water or unsweetened soy milk or nut milk to obtain desired consistency.  Serve in preheated bowls.

Note: Whole canned Italian tomatoes are a good staple to have on hand during the winter months. Their flavor and versatility is excellent for winter cooking when fresh seasonal vegetables are less abundant.

Fire and Ice 

 Some say the world will end in fire,
 Some say in ice. 
 From what I've tasted of desire
 I hold with those who favor fire.
But if it had to perish twice,
I think I know enough of hate
To say that for destruction ice
Is also great
And would suffice.

- Robert Frost
(1874- 1963)

Cooking with Pressure: Fast, Healthy, Flavorful

Most younger Americans have probably never seen a pressure cooker, let alone used one. Pressure cookers had their heyday in the 1940's following their introduction at the 1939 New York World's Fair, but they were soon supplanted by the huge wave of convenience foods which swept the country in the 1950's, when most of those old cookers were relegated to basements and attics and forgotten.

But pressure cookers retained a place of honor in kitchens throughout much of Europe, South America, North Africa and India, where they are valued for making flavorful healthy meals which are also remarkably fuel and time efficient. The most beautifully designed sleek, safe and durable pressure cookers like the Italian one in the photo are made by European manufacturers; these contemporary stainless steel models last for a lifetime and are a pleasure to use.

Today the pressure cooker is again gaining recognition in the U.S. among cooks who appreciate the intense, concentrated and pure flavors created by relatively brief cooking under pressure. Dense vegetables like beets, winter squash, carrots and potatoes cook in roughly one third the time required by conventional cooking methods, as do legumes, brown rice, barley and other whole grains. Savory vegetable stews, soups and sauces which normally require slow cooking can be prepared in minutes using a single pot from start to finish.

I acquired my first Italian pressure cooker in 1982 and have used it year round since then. In warm weather I prepare garbanzo beans or white beans to use in fresh green salads with ripe tomatoes and herbs. In autumn when apples and pears are plentiful, I make apple- pear sauce with cinnamon and ginger; in winter, black beans and spicy red bean chile are often on the menu. Winter and summer, this dependable kitchen tool keeps the pressure in the pot where it belongs, and out of the kitchen.

Parsley: An Uncommon Root

These intriguingly shaped little parsley roots were an unexpected find on a recent shopping expedition; although they were clearly labeled I was certain that they were immature parsnips. Seldom seen in American produce markets, parsley root is familiar to central European cooks who use it in soups and stews.

Long cultivated in the Mediterranean region, the parsley plant is a member of the large family of umbelliferae which includes carrots, celery, celeriac, caraway, chervil, cilantro and dill. So important was the plant to ancient Greek culture that coins were stamped with the image of the parsley leaf.

If you do come across parsley roots in the market, they may still have their edible leaves attached. You'll notice their resemblance to celery leaves, as the two are closely related. The ancient Greek name for parsley is selinon; the word is sometimes used to refer to both parsley and wild celery. The botanical term A. petroselinum literally means "rock parsley".

Young parsley roots may be thinly sliced and eaten raw in salads, or steamed briefly until tender and mashed with a bit of olive oil and sea salt. Roast with your favorite root vegetables in the oven, or add to rustic vegetable soups such as minestrone or borscht.

Parsley roots begin to mature enough for harvesting in late summer, signaling the approach of fall. Unblemished, firm roots will keep well in the fridge for at least a few weeks. Those which have been stored longer will still be fine for cooking. Be sure to scrub roots well before using.

Turnip + Watercress + Purple Cabbage = Spring Salad

This spicy, crunchy and refreshing spring salad will leave you wishing you'd made twice as much. Proportions below are flexible; improvise as you wish. Keep in mind that the turnips and watercress can be quite pungent; balance their bite with the cooling purple cabbage. Grating the turnips and cabbage rather than slicing will alter the texture of the salad in a delightful way; either method creates a vibrantly colorful and healthy dish.

Salad:
2 cups turnips, thinly sliced or grated
2 cups purple cabbage, thinly sliced or grated
2 tablespoons leek, thinly sliced (use the green part too)
2 handfuls watercress

Dressing:
fresh squeezed juice of 2 or 3 lemons
olive oil to taste
sea salt to taste

Arrange vegetables on a platter; sprinkle with fresh lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt to taste and serve. Or toss salad in a bowl with dressing just before serving.

Turnips: A Meditation

Turnips: A Definition

"The usually white globular 'root' (the swollen hypocotyl) of a yellow- flowered cruciferous plant, Brassica rapa, long cultivated as a vegetable and as cattle- feed." (Middle 16th century).

-- Oxford English Dictionary

Turnips: Random Thoughts

Easily overlooked among more distinguished vegetables and fruits, turnips occupy a small corner of the culinary world and the produce bin; sometimes hairy, bumpy, irregularly shaped, perhaps a bit dirty and colorless, they don't cry out for attention. However, a turnip will never let you down!

Stored in the fridge in a loosely closed plastic bag, a turnip will be there when you need it, unspoiled and filled with quiet potential. Add it to soups or stews, roast in the oven with a few other vegetables and a sprinkling of olive oil, sea salt and herbs. Or make a quick fresh salad of raw julienned turnip and carrot tossed in a simple herb dressing.

Select turnips which are smooth, free of bruises or fissures, and which feel heavy for their size. If greens are attached, do not discard; they are a nutritious and spicy treat. Cut greens from bulb with a knife, wash well and steam briefly.

Several varieties of small "baby" turnips can be found in produce markets, like the "Golden Globes" in the photo above. They are milder in flavor, more tender and faster cooking than larger specimens (best left for cattle- feed) and are ideal for any recipe. These are the best ones to keep on hand, waiting for that special turnip moment to arise.

Recipe to follow!

Warm Winter Purple Peruvian Potato Salad

This satisfying warm salad is a complete meal in a bowl that can be put together in two easy steps. Steam the potatoes and Brussels sprouts, then cut up vegetables and toss with olive oil, vinegar and sea salt. The recipe calls for medium sized potatoes but small ones are excellent if available. (For deep background on these ancient heirloom potatoes, see earlier post titled "Purple Peruvian Potatoes: The Gem of the Andes"). Recipe makes about 3 servings.

Warm Winter Purple Peruvian Potato Salad

3 medium purple Peruvian potatoes, steamed, peeled and cubed
10 - 12 medium Brussels sprouts, halved and steamed
2 red cherry bomb peppers, (or other fresh hot pepper) seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons leek (use some of the green part) thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)
sea salt to taste
1 handful raw or toasted almonds, chopped, for garnish (optional)

Potatoes may be halved before steaming to speed cooking. Place halves in a pan with almost enough water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover pan, and cook on low heat until just barely tender. In a separate pan, cook halved Brussels sprouts using the same technique; remove from pan when still bright green and just tender; you may cut them into quarters at this point if you wish. While vegetables are steaming, chop peppers and leek and set aside.

Place cooked potatoes on cutting board and allow to cool briefly, then peel and cube. Place in a heated ceramic or glass bowl with Brussels sprouts, leek and red pepper. Toss lightly, adding oil, vinegar and sea salt. Taste and correct seasoning. Serve immediately in warm bowls, garnished with chopped almonds.

Purple Peruvian Potatoes: The Gem of the Andes

From the outside, the purple Peruvian potato looks unappealing and even unappetizing, but its lumpy dark exterior hides a beautiful amethyst hued interior of superior flavor and nutritional value. First cultivated in the Andean highlands (the altiplano), the purple potato is just one of thousands of potato varieties which were domesticated more than seven thousand years ago and were a major source of food for the Incas; the Quechua word "papa" is the linguistic root of the English word "potato".

The antioxidant phytochemical anthocyanin lends the potato its purple- blue color. (In Greek anthos= flower; kyanos= blue). Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds which are present in many fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds; cranberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, grapes, purple cabbage and olives are a few examples. Research indicates that there are many health benefits to be gained from eating plant foods which are high in anthocyanins and other antioxidants; cooking does not destroy the anthocyanins in these potatoes, which also contain good amounts of protein and vitamin C.

Purple Peruvian potatoes can be grown in any small backyard garden in Northern California; they evolved to thrive in cool climates with short daylight conditions. Some produce markets carry these and other heirloom potatoes; select a few with visible buds or "eyes" and plant them in loose soil, water occasionally, and wait. Potato plants require little care and will continue to propagate year after year. It's best to select a spot in the garden which you can segregate, as the plants will take over as much territory as you allow them to.

When shopping for Peruvian potatoes, look for firm, unblemished specimens which are small or medium in size; larger ones take longer to cook and may not be as flavorful as the smaller ones. Those which have a few buds are perfectly edible; buds are a sign that the potatoes have not been chemically treated. Store in a cool place in your pantry; their shelf life is good and they are a great staple to have on hand for quick meals.

Recipe to follow!